Virgin Hotel, Edinburgh: Where old meets contemporary swagger

CHECK-IN

After opening five Virgin hotels in the US, Sir Richard Branson has launched his first British outpost with this Edinburgh offering, and there's another due to open in Glasgow in December 2022. The hotel flanks colourful, curving, shop-lined Victoria Street, which is just off the famous Royal Mile in Edinburgh's Old Town, and claims to have been the inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter stories. JK Rowling denies the rumour, but fans continue to gravitate here, especially to the store selling Hogwarts merchandise.

THE LOOK

Although a bit of a labyrinth spread over several levels, this hotel could hardly be mistaken for anywhere in the Potterverse. Stepping inside the landmark restored 19th-century India Buildings, you'll see the first sporadic pops of red - a telltale sign of the Virgin brand - with a carpet leading up an original staircase and a dazzling glass-walled corridor to reception. Art and photography catch your gaze throughout the hotel, with quirky takes on Scottish fashions and figures, such as Mary, Queen of Scots. Cosy communal retreats include a funky library stocked with bountiful books, from glossy Edinburgh guides to Branson's Like A Virgin. More spaces and annexes will appear for the hotel's second phase including Greyfriars Hall, an events spot in an old church, and a roof terrace garden with views over to Edinburgh Castle.

THE ROOM

Ultimately there will be 222 high-tech "chambers" and suites. But for the initial launch, 125 rooms are open, from 24-square-metre kings to Sir Richard's Flat, a 73-square-metre flash-pad available when the boss is out of town (that's most of the time). I stay in the 44-square-metre Grand Chamber Junior Suite, which peeks out onto Victoria Street, has high ceilings, wooden floors and a smart design splitting the "Dressing Room" with the "Sleeping Lounge". The former has a huge vanity mirror and sink, a closet, separate W/C and roomy walk-in shower with Isle of Arran lime, rose and sandalwood products. The latter has a comfortable custom-made bed and seating area with tables, fabric chair and sofa. Atop the (red) minibar SMEG fridge are "On the Hoose" - that's complimentary in Scottish - items like tea, bagged Colombian coffee and Tunnock's caramel wafer biscuits. You can control the thermostat, lighting and other things via wall buttons, the large smart TV and Lucy, an app-led "personal assistant" accessible when you join The Know, Virgin's loyalty program.

FOOD +WINE

The Commons Club spans a timber-panelled lobby-side cocktail bar and a basement with a well-lit dining area by the kitchen and a moodier, wine-cellar-like space with stone walls and arches. Here Edinburgh-born chef Steven Wilson combines seasonal Scottish ingredients with international influences. After breakfasting on bacon and eggs, pastries and yoghurt, I return for dinner: melt-in-the-mouth wagyu tataki, pan-seared Hebridean halibut drizzled with a light Shetland blue mussel and saffron veloute, and cranachan, a traditional Scottish dessert with raspberry, oats, honey and whisky. For a three-course meal with wine, expect to fork out $100-150 a person. Soon, the hotel will also have all-day eatery, Eve.