By Julie Miller
The boys from Entourage.
"I got into this business so I wouldn't have to work," heart-throb Vincent Chase said in an episode of the hit television program, Entourage. But as I'm discovering during a week emulating Vince's celebrity lifestyle in West Hollywood, it takes effort – indeed, hard work – to look, act and feel like a superstar.
"Help me!" I groan to Terri, the beauty therapist at Kinara Spa who has been given the unenviable task of restoring my youthful good looks. After a long-haul flight, little sleep, copious meals of rich food and way too much alcohol, my face is drawn, sallow and creased.
"Don't worry, you have pretty skin," Terri says cheerfully, patting my drooping cheeks. "We'll have you Red Carpet-ready in no time."
West Hollywood's famous Sunset Strip.Credit: Alamy
Thank goodness. Here in the decadent heart of Tinsel Town, it's compulsory to always look your best. You never know where the paparazzi might be hiding, and you don't want to be caught out in (my usual attire of) baggy Asia pants, thongs and – gasp! – no make-up. Even as a tourist, playing the fame game in WeHo doesn't just mean spotting celebrities – it's about living like one.
Historically, West Hollywood has always been a party town, a place of rebellion, vice and scandal. Officially incorporated as an independent city in 1984, this pistol-shaped 4.9 square kilometre area had previously resisted attempts at annexation, putting it outside the jurisdiction of the Los Angeles Police Department. As a result, gambling became rife during the Golden Age of Hollywood, with infamous mobsters like Bugsy Malone and Mickey Cohen ruling the roost on Sunset Strip.
In the 1960s and '70s, WeHo evolved as a centre of counterculture, attracting hippies, artists and musicians whose bad behaviour became the stuff of legend. Then came the dispossessed minorities, Russian Jews and the gay and lesbian community escaping persecution from authorities.
Today, West Hollywood has around 39,000 residents, (of which more than a third identify as LGBT) and remains one of the most progressive, liberal and creative hubs in the United States. It's also undoubtedly the place to celebrate the good life, home to LA's most exciting restaurants, bars and nightclubs. There may be no theme parks or museums of note; but what it lacks in tourist attractions, it more than makes up for in vibrancy, atmosphere and a palpable joie de vivre.
Yes, life is sweet in WeHo. Here are some suggestions of where to hang with your entourage during your next visit:
EAT
How my friends who live in West Hollywood stay slim is a mystery to me. The dining scene has a plethora of innovative restaurants frequented by the rich, famous and gorgeous.
Favourites include the rustic, Australian-owned Eveleigh (theeveleigh.com) on Sunset Boulevard, a leader of the paddock-to-plate trend; cavernous Church Key (thechurchkeyla.com), with its cool dim sum-style trolley service and fun cocktails; the tres-cool converted hardware store Laurel Hardware (laurelhardware.com), where the Entourage cast celebrated the signing of their movie; and the elegant Cecconi's (cecconiswesthollywood.com), a lunchtime haunt for the entertainment industry.
Eating well can also be done with a clear conscience at Gracias Madre on Melrose Avenue (graciasmadreweho.com), serving delicious organic vegan Mexican cuisine in a sunny courtyard frequented by stars like Jennifer Lopez and Tyra Banks.
DRINK
A night on the town begins early in WeHo, with Happy Hour cocktails an essential part of the itinerary. The primped and preened botox set like to be seen at the Mad Men-esque Craig's on Melrose Avenue (craigs.la); or leap into the '70s vibe at the awesome Now Boarding (nowboardingla.com), featuring live bands and cool jazz grooves.
It's worth braving the inevitable velvet rope judgment for the glamour of the Sky Bar at the Mondrian Hotel; or if rock'n'roll grunge is more your scene, hit The Strip for legendary haunts such as Rainbow Room and Pearl's Liquor Bar. As the night wears on, hug it out with gay abandon at The Abbey or Here Lounge; then close the deal among rock royalty and supermodels at Bar 2000, tucked into the lobby of the Sunset Marquis hotel.
SLEEP
After a night of nights, you need to crash somewhere, even just to dry out. The Standard, The London, Palihouse, Andaz, Mondrian – the list of celebrity-worthy West Hollywood digs goes on and on.
While stars who want to be seen check into the infamous Chateau Marmont (technically just outside the WeHo border), those requesting privacy prefer to hole up at Sunset Marquis (sunsetmarquis.com), a tranquil, green oasis offering secret entrances safe from prying paparazzi.
Continue snoozing poolside to guarantee a glimpse of someone famous (at the very least an American Idol contestant); or request a tour of the subterranean Nightbird Studios, where everyone from Aerosmith to Katy Perry have recorded albums.
GET FIT
Boyish good looks may come easy for Vincent Chase, but as his sidekick Turtle discovers, keeping up with the Kardashians requires some effort. Actor Jerry Ferrara's secret to dramatic weight loss was due to workouts at Unbreakable Performance Centre on Sunset (unbreakableperformance.com); while other celebs prefer to whoop it up at the cult-like SoulCycle (soul-cycle.com), high-octane spin classes guaranteed to whip thighs into cellulite-free shape.
No less strenuous are cycling tours of Beverly Hills and the beaches of Santa Monica and Venice, run by WeHo-based company, Bikes 'N Hikes; they also conduct enjoyable sunset hikes to the observatory in Griffith Park (bikesandhikesla.com), rewarded with fabulous views across the city as the sun sinks over the iconic Hollywood sign.
RECUPERATE
A lifestyle of leisure can be tough on the complexion, but help is at hand in one of West Hollywood's many day spas and beauty salons. I opt for Kinara Skin Care Clinic & Spa's magical Red Carpet Facial, a 50-minute exfoliating regime that leaves my skin plump, smooth and wrinkle-free – a truly amazing (albeit temporary) transformation. Stars like Halle Berry, Jessica Biel and Anne Hathaway swear by this treatment before special occasions, with instant results guaranteed to leave an Oscar-winning glow. (kinaraspa.com)
Ah, West Hollywood – so superficial, so narcissistic … and so fabulous. Never change.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Virgin Australia and United Airlines both have daily flights from Sydney to Los Angeles. See virginaustralia.com and united.com.
STAYING THERE
Rooms at Sunset Marquis range from $395 a night in the main building, up to $13,000 a night for the presidential suite. See sunsetmarquis.com.
The writer was a guest of Visit West Hollywood.
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