What to do, see and eat in Venice: Expert expat tips

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This was published 4 years ago

What to do, see and eat in Venice: Expert expat tips

By Shaney Hudson
Byzantine Mosaics of the Virgin Mary and Child above the altar of the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, Torcello Venice.

Byzantine Mosaics of the Virgin Mary and Child above the altar of the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, Torcello Venice.Credit: Alamy

THE EXPAT

Jane Caporal was born in Perth and has lived in Venice for 30 years with her Italian husband and two boys. An amateur rowing champion, 10 years ago she started Row Venice, a not-for-profit organisation that shares the tradition of Venetian rowing with visitors to the city, rowvenice.org

SEE

Jane Caporal.

Jane Caporal.

During the Middle Ages, Venice was extremely wealthy and controlled most of the trade in the Adriatic. You get a sense of the power and wealth they had by visiting the Doge's palace, but to get an idea of what this meant in terms of maritime strength and ship building, visit the Venice Naval Historical Museum or the Arsenale, visitmuve.it

DO

Explore the outer islands. My favourite is Torcello where there is an exquisite church, the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. The bell tower gives a wonderful view of the surrounding marshlands and colourful Burano Island. After, eat at one of the remaining farmhouses turned restaurant, like Ponte del Diavolo. See osteriaalpontedeldiavolo.com

EAT

We love to stop at the many lively bars along the Misericordia canal. You will often see our boats moored near the Jewish ghetto with our instructors and rowers enjoying cicchetti (Venetian small bites - try the spicy salami with cream cheese, walnut, fig and balsamico on crostini) and a glass of soave at Vino Vero, facebook.com/vinoverovenezia

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DRINK

As an older athlete, I confess I try to keep a more sombre lifestyle. Occasionally I will join my husband at the bar Cupido at Fondamenta Nove. He is there most evenings with the other soccer coaches discussing training. We may grab a pizza or stroll round the corner to Osteria Alla Frasca, but if I'm feeling more energetic on a Friday or Saturday night, then I'm off to the Bauer Hotel to listen to jazz, facebook.com/barcupidove/, facebook.com/osteriallafrasca/, bauervenezia.com

AVOID

Venetians do not like picnicking. You will not see them eating a sandwich on a bench or in a park. Instead, Venetians will go to a bar or small osteria in their lunch break. So if you do decide to stop for a break, either make it a quick one standing at the bar, or pay extra, take a seat and take all the time in the world.

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