Where to eat in Dublin, Ireland: Chef Colin Fassnidge

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This was published 9 years ago

Where to eat in Dublin, Ireland: Chef Colin Fassnidge

By Julietta Jameson
Wagyu Corned beef at the Four in Hand.

Wagyu Corned beef at the Four in Hand.

Dublin-born Colin Fassnidge is renowned for his nose-to-tail and locally-sourced cookery. He runs 4Fourteen and the Four in Hand Hotel, Sydney (and wrote the cookbook, Four's Kitchens). Alongside executive chef Martin Glutz, he is creating a four-course degustation matched with wines by winemaker David O'Leary at the Celebrity Chef Weekend, January 23-24 at Peppers Salt Resort & Spa, Kingscliff. See peppers.com.au/salt.

WHAT'S YOUR FAVOURITE TABLE IN DUBLIN ?

Any table at Forest Avenue, a small restaurant in Ballsbridge, opened by a husband-and-wife team. They have worked at Noma and in the United States and have brought a modern outlook with them to this quiet corner of Dublin, and to a menu packed with traditional Irish ingredients and products. Hands down the best meal I had in Europe. See forestavenuerestaurant.ie.

Colin Fassnidge.

Colin Fassnidge.

THE LOCAL FOOD DISCOVERY OF THE PAST YEAR?

Here in Sydney, Martin Boetz farm vegetables. An ex-Longrain chef, he has had a sea change, moving on to a farm in the Hawksbury, which provides all our restaurants with seasonal, organic fresh as fruits and vegetables. And it's on our doorstep. See cooksco-op.com.

WHAT IS DUBLIN'S BEST-KEPT FOOD SECRET?

Etto – again a small place, it's a wine bar at 18 Merrion Row and is great for a lunchtime after you have been dragged around the nearby shops all morning. It offers small plates, with a touch of offal, which I love. A great wine list by the glass, carafe or bottle. See etto.ie.

PLACE TO GO ON A DAY OFF?

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Spice I Am on Wentworth Avenue (Sydney) for Thai food. I love food that packs a punch. Here, it is always consistently good, provides bang for your buck and it is really good – and you can BYO a few cheeky beers to help with the spice. See spiceiam.com

FAVOURITE INDULGENCE IN DUBLIN?

Going back for a few pints in Hogans Bar on George Street where I spent a fair bit of my youth, followed by smoked fish and chips at Roma II chipper close by. You can't get a better night out. See pubsdirect.ie/hogansbar.

WHAT SHOULD A VISITOR AVOID, FOOD-WISE, IN DUBLIN?

There are a few dodgy pubs festooned with leprechauns and flags, offering everything "traditionally Irish". But a lot of them are just serving frozen, deep fried food, which to me, is anything but Irish.

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