Where to eat in Lima, Peru: Chef Virgilio Martinez Veliz

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This was published 9 years ago

Where to eat in Lima, Peru: Chef Virgilio Martinez Veliz

By Julietta Jameson
Chef Virgilio Martinez Veliz of Central in Lima.

Chef Virgilio Martinez Veliz of Central in Lima.

Peruvian Virgilio Martinez Veliz's restaurant Central is No.15 on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list, several spots above the legendary Astrid y Gaston where he was once executive chef. He founded Mater Iniciativa, a research initiative to discover Peru's diverse native ingredients in their original habitats. See centralrestaurante.com.pe; theworlds50best.com.

WHERE'S YOUR FAVOURITE TABLE IN LIMA?

La Picanteria (by Hector Solis) –the place with the most fun ambience and flavoursome, tasty food. It's just simple and laid back. See lapicanteriasdelperu.com.

YOUR BIGGEST LOCAL FOOD FIND OF THE PAST YEAR?

Tuna; the real stuff. And frozen dried potato from the mountains in the Andes, harvested at 4000 metres above sea level and cooked using different methods.

WHAT IS LIMA'S BEST-KEPT FOOD SECRET?

There are so many humble but incredible "cevicherias" here, I wouldn't be able to mention just one.

FAVOURITE INDULGENCE?

For the food, that would have to be the sheer variety of our local vegetables and roots, which are often cooked underground. For drink, it's pisco infused with barks, leaves and with or without a touch of resins from Amazonian trees.

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WHAT'S HOT IN THE AREA RIGHT NOW?

A little place called Isolina tavern. It's a great place with huge portions that serves very "Criollo" food. See isolina.pe.

BEST TIME TO VISIT AND WHY, FOOD-WISE?

I would say March or April. It is not as crowded then, but it is also the end of summer for Lima, so the weather is perfect to walk around, go to markets, talk to people, and even to take short trips to different cities in Peru. It is also the end of the rainy season in the Andes and Amazonia, which marks for some species the harvest, and for others, the seeding. Everything is green at that time, so the air smells of fruit and leaves.

PLACE TO GO ON A DAY OFF?

Within a day, you can visit the nearby valleys of Lima, which are Pachacamac, Chilca and Mala, or you can visit the pisco distilleries in Ica. You can even take an hour's flight within Peru, perhaps to the Amazon of San Martin, the Andes of Cusco, or the north beaches where the Humboldt current gets mixed with El Nino and the water is less cold. Good food will be everywhere. Lima city is interesting as well, with art museums, hand-crafted items, hundreds of restaurant options, beautiful beach walks, and the main square.

WHAT SHOULD A VISITOR AVOID, FOOD-WISE IN LIMA?

Going to markets that are too crowded, or going to restaurants without asking a local (like in every corner of the world, there are always tourist traps that may not be of the best quality). If you go to the Andes, avoid over-eating or getting drunk on your first day – you'll need a few days for acclimatisation.

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