Williamstown, Victoria: Travel guide and things to do

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Williamstown, Victoria: Travel guide and things to do

Williamstown, VIC

Williamstown, VIC

Williamstown developed at the same time as Melbourne and served as its first port. Located at the mouth of the Yarra River, it is now effectively a metropolitan suburb located 13 km south-west of the city centre at the tip of a peninsula which projects out into Port Phillip Bay. On its northern side is Hobsons Bay and on its southern side is Altona Bay.

In recent years Williamstown has received a face lift and become a major tourism drawcard. It retains the coherence and charm of a maritime village, due, in no small part, to the many historic buildings. A proliferation of cafes and restaurants are a major feature of Nelson Place which runs adjacent the foreshore while boats, yachts and dinghies decorate the shoreline and ships sail through the estuary en route to the Port of Melbourne.

There are some up-market galleries and a range of accommodation - mostly self-contained or bed-and-breakfast. There are no motels but there is some corporate accommodation on the waterfront which looks across to the city's skyline, West Gate Bridge (connecting Williamstown to the city by road), and the docks and container terminals of Port Melbourne. A link with the past is retained in the form of the old naval dockyard, now owned by Tenix, which, together with the Port Phillip Woollen Mill, reflects the industrial dimension of Williamstown.

The mouth of the Yarra River was inspected in May and June of 1835 by the party of John Batman who recognised the potential of the Melbourne townsite for settlement. They named the site of Williamstown Port Harwood after the captain of one of their ships. In August John Pascoe Fawkner's 55-ton schooner, the Enterprise, carried the first settlers into Port Phillip Bay and up the Yarra to commence the settlement of Melbourne. Fawkner himself, a fractious ex-convict and son of a convict who was also a pioneering newspaper proprietor and hotelier, landed at Hobsons Bay in August of that year.

When Governor Bourke and Captain William Lonsdale visited the emergent settlement at Port Phillip Bay in 1837, they both felt the main site of settlement would emerge at the estuary and they renamed it Williamstown after King William IV, then the English monarch. It served as Melbourne's first anchorage and as the centre for port facilities to the Port Phillip district until the late 19th century.

The first land sales took place in 1837. A 30-metre stone jetty was built by convict labour in 1838 where Gem Pier now stands. That same year a ferry service between Melbourne and Williamstown was established aboard the steamer 'Fire Fly'. It was used to convey passengers, as well as sheep and cattle from Tasmania. The first cemetery in Victoria was established at Point Gellibrand at this time.

A store was set up in 1839 with a water police superintendent appointed in 1840. St Mary's Catholic School was established in 1842 and it is now the oldest continuously operating school in the state. In 1847 Steamboat Pier was built and a permanent customs house was set up. The water police and customs officers remained here until the Melbourne Harbour Trust developed river channels closer to the Melbourne CBD in the 1890s.

Although it was the major port for Melbourne, Williamstown, in 1850, was an unattractive centre. There were a few grog shops and boarding houses on the shore with debris and rubbish from the ships and the town lining the shore. The streets remained unsealed and there were few amenities or houses.

With the Victorian goldrushes of the 1850s Williamstown's port functions meant that it experienced a tremendous increase in through-traffic as immigrants and interstate travellers disembarked en route to the fields. Many ships were left floating in Hobsons Bay when crews deserted for the fields. Some became floating boarding houses.

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A stockade was built in 1853 and, in 1854, a gun battery and observatory were erected and the first telegraph in Australia was established between Melbourne and Williamstown. By that time a number of penal hulks had also been set up aboard five vessels in Hobsons Bay, owing to the sudden increase in criminal prosecution generated by the goldrushes. Two prisoners who served time on the hulk 'Success' were the bushrangers Captain Melville and Dan 'Mad Dog' Morgan. Conditions were appalling and the discipline harsh. Convict labour from the hulks was used to build the breakwater. The hulk 'Deborah' was used as a reformatory school for children from 1864.

The first gunship to be presented to the Australian colony by the British government was the 580-ton 'Victoria' which sported seven 32-pound guns. It docked at Williamstown in 1856 and was utilised by the Royal Australian Navy which was founded at Williamstown. The ship was later loaned to New Zealand for use in the Maori wars. It was also sent to the Gulf of Carpentaria to bring back the survivors of the ill-fated Burke and Wills expedition.

In 1856 Williamstown was declared a separate municipality. By that time it had been transformed into a substantial settlement. The streets had been sealed, kerbed and widened. There were excellent hotels, shops, residences, banks and churches of stone and timber. Many of the town's historic buildings date from this time.

A railway line from Geelong to Newport was operating by 1856 (with passengers carried over the river by ferry). This private line was bought up by the government in 1858 (it was the first government-owned railway line) and extended across the river to Melbourne. Work began on a state shipyard (now privately owned) in 1865. The foundation stone was laid by the Duke of Edinburgh.

The 'Shenandoah', a raider belonging to the Confederate army in the US Civil War, requested permission to dock at Williamstown in 1865 after developing propeller problems during a commercial voyage. Permission was granted over the objections of the US consul. It left after 22 days before the consul could realise plans to seize the ship. After capturing or sinking 38 Union ships it surrendered at Liverpool in England. In 1871, at the International Court in Geneva, the US government was awarded £820 000 pounds from Britain because the ship had been granted the facilities of Williamstown.

The HMVS Nelson was given to the colony of Victoria by the British government in 1867. It dropped anchor off Point Gellibrand the following year. Launched in 1814, it was originally 74.5 metres long, weighed 2617 tons, required a crew of 875 and sported 126 guns (later reduced to 72). It became a reformatory for errant boys for 4 years and was increasingly disfigured until broken up in 1908. The anchors now adorn the foreshore, a catting block is in the historical museum and its weaponry distributed to numerous country towns.

A new customs house was built in 1873, the year a steam ferry at Newport was established by the local council. The largest graving dock in the Southern Hemisphere was built in 1874. The borough of Williamstown was declared a town in 1886 and a city in 1919.

A ferry across the lower Yarra River facilitated more direct access to Melbourne in 1931 and a crude oil terminal was built in the 1950s. In 1970, during the construction of the West Gate Bridge, an accident resulted in the deaths of 35 men. The bridge was completed in 1978. A power station was built, amidst controversy over its environmental impact, near the western end of the bridge in the late 1970s.

Things to see

Tourist Information and Tours
The Williamstown Tourist Information Centre is located on Commonwealth Reserve at the corner of Nelson Place and Syme St. It is open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., tel: (03) 9397 3791. You can obtain brochures here outlining self-guided walks which take in the town's historical buildings, features and sites.

Guided walking and coach tours of Williamstown are also conducted for a fee by Williamstown Tours (tel: 03 9391 2970) and Hobsons Bay Historic Tours, tel: (03) 9397 6023. Both also offer specially designed educational tours for school groups.

Commonwealth Reserve is the site of a craft market on the third Sunday of each month.

Tide Water Gauge House
Also on the Commonwealth Reserve is Tide Water Gauge House, a finely detailed building which was built between 1858 and 1860 at the foot of Breakwater Pier. It featured a rare example of an automatic device for gauging the tides.

Gem Pier and the Ferries
At the end of Syme St is Gem Pier which was named after a paddlesteamer that once operated between Williamstown and Port Melbourne. A 30-metre stone jetty was built here by convict labour in 1838 although the original has been replaced.

Ferries now operate daily between Gem Pier and Southgate and, on weekends, between Gem Pier and St Kilda.

Williamstown Maritime Museum
Permanently stationed at Gem Pier is the HMAS Castlemaine (1942) - a World War II minesweeper which was built at the local shipyards. It is now used as a maritime museum. Aside from the ship itself there is a collection of nautical memorabilia and exhibits within its confines. It is open from midday to 5.00 p.m. on weekends and public holidays or by appointment for groups, tel: (03) 9397 2363 on weekends or (03) 9853 0823 before 10.00 a.m. on weekdays.

The Enterprize
Chartered trips are available on weekends, on board the 'Enterprize' - a timber replica of the 55-ton sailing schooner which carried the first European settlers up the Yarra to Melbourne. It picks up passengers from Gem Pier although the ship is docked at the end of Anne St. Visitors who merely wish to see the ship must go to the end of Anne St where the exterior can be observed. Tours of the interior are available for groups who undertake bookings. For either inspections or charters ring (03) 9397 3477.

Historic Morgue
Anne St runs between the water and Nelson Place. Therein lies what is thought to be the state's earliest morgue - a single-storey bluestone structure with an arched entrance erected in 1859.

Initially, coroners' examinations were conducted in hotel basements where the bodies were suspended from the ceiling by ropes to forestall the attentions of rats. As many bodies were in a state of decomposition they caused olfactory offence and so the morgue was built. It was moved from its initial site close to Gem Pier to the current address in 1873 as its presence at that well-attended spot continued to cause consternation.

Other buildings of historic interest are the former 'Advertiser' newspaper building at 205 Nelson Place and the former Port Health Officer's residence at no.231. Holy Trinity Church of England is a Gothic bluestone structure built between 1871 and 1874.

The Former Prince Of Wales Hotel
At the end of Nelson Place (no.1), opposite the dockyard, is the Titanic Theatre Restaurant, situated within the former Prince of Wales Hotel (1850s) - a building with a Georgian design featuring a cast-iron verandah. The 1 in 10 scale model of the Titanic atop the building caused some controversy but the rest of the facade and the interior have been quite nicely restored, including the cellars which still feature shackles in the wall to which sailors were bound before being shanghaied.

Time Ball Tower
The Time Ball Tower is also located at the bottom of Nelson Place, opposite the beach, on the foreshore at Point Gellibrand. The lower section of the building was constructed by convict labour out of bluestone either in 1846 or 1852, depending on which source is credited. It replaced a wooden tower erected in 1842. The purpose of the time ball was to tell ships what the time was. At exactly 1.00pm each day the Time Ball was manually lowered to allow ships to set their chronometers accurately. A cylindrical brick upper extension was added in the 1930s. The Time Ball was restored in the 1990s and it now operates according to a computerised system.

Fort Gellibrand
The gun emplacements, earthworks, parapets, drains, magazines and infantry revetments of Fort Gellibrand have also been restored to original condition in the 1990s. The fort developed between 1860 and 1890. It is only open to the general public occasionally as it is still used by a commando unit. However, it is expected that it will open on a more regular basis in the future.

The first cemetery in what is now Victoria was established in this area in the late 1830s. When the fort was built the bodies were removed to a vault.

Science Works and Planetarium
The Science Works is a hands-on highly interactive science museum for all ages which features different programs throughout the year. The emphasis is on fun. It is located in Booker St and is open from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. daily, tel: (03) 9392 4800. A new digital planetarium is located on the grounds and is part of the complex. It is open in the evenings.

Historical Museum
The Historical Museum is located in the former mechanics' institute (c.1860) at 5 Electra St by the intersection where it meets both Parker St and Melbourne Rd. It is open from 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m. Sundays and by appointment during the week. They have a large collection of maritime material, photographs, records and other items pertaining to the settlement's venerable and quite crucial history. There are several walking tours of the town's historic features outlined in brochures at the museum and plenty of published material, including a free potted history of Williamstown. There is also an historical kit for school groups, tel: (03) 9397 5423 or (03) 9397 5933.

Botanic Gardens
Williamstown Botanic Gardens are located at the corner of Osborne and Giffard Sts.

Some Other Historic Buildings
The Steam Packet Hotel at the corner of Cole St and Aitken St is a two-storey Classical Revival structure built in 1863 to replace a mid-1850s original.

Stevedore Uniting Church (in Stevedore St) was built of bluestone c.1870 as a Gothic Revival for the Congregationalists. An asymmetrical design it features a fine tower capped by an octagonal lantern and spire. The entrance, west windows and detailing are all of distinction.

The former Presbyterian manse at 27 Lyons St is a two-storey bluestone building erected in 1856-57 and sold by the church in 1886. It is asymmetrical with projecting wings, bay windows, multi-pane windows and a hipped slate roof.

At 64 Pascoe St (corner of Lyons St) is the former 'Ashton Villa' - a single-storey bluestone house built in 1859 for Customs and Immigration official George Ashton.

'Mandalay' is a substantial two-storey residence at 24 The Strand which was built of stuccoed bluestone in 1858 for Captain William Probert. A symmetrical design it features a single-storey verandah with a gabled porch at the centre of the facade. It is considered typical of the houses which fronted Hobsons Bay in the 19th century. The two-storey weatherboard house at 63 The Strand was built c.1859. It features a timber verandah and single-storey gabled wing at one end.

The two-storey stone house at 1 Yarra St was built in the early 1850s for merchant William Langhorne. It was stuccoed in 1861. An original two-storey verandah has been removed and the upper doors converted to windows. The timber wing was added in the 20th century.

At 3 Cox's Gardens is a single-storey mid-1850s cottage built partially of prefabricated timber for Samuel George Cox. It is a rare surviving example of an 1850s worker's cottage.

The Australian Railways Historical Society's Railway Museum
The Railway Museum is located 200 metres from the North Williamstown railway station in Champion Rd. There are some 20 railway engines with many carriages and wagons. It is open from midday to 5.00 p.m. on weekends and public holidays and from midday to 4.00 p.m. on Wednesdays during school holidays. For enquiries ring (03) 9397 7412 or (03) 9772 1287 after hours. Mid-week school and group visits are by arrangement: tel: (03) 9596 3249.

Wetland Areas
The Jawbone Wetland area is about 8 minutes from Williamstown off Kororoit Creek Rd which departs westwards from Williamstown as Ferguson St. It features a boardwalk, birdhides and a lake system.

Another wetland area is located under the West Gate Bridge to the north of North Williamstown, en route to the Melbourne CBD. Boardwalks lead to areas where you can view the ships of Port Melbourne. A mangrove swamp is adjacent.

Altona Miniature Railway
Families with children may be interested in taking a ride on some miniature steam trains on the third Sunday of the month from midday to 4.00 p.m. in Blenheim St, Altona North (just to the west of Williamstown). There are picnic and barbecue facilities and a kiosk, tel: (03) 9741 6580.

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