This was published 7 years ago
Cavallo Point Lodge, San Francisco: Luxury boutique hotel on city's doorstep
A former military barracks in San Francisco has since become the ultimate luxury lodge.
Brit Thurston is not your average doorman. Dressed in a tweed flat cap, moleskin waistcoat and checked shirt, he is expounding at length about the history of his beloved city as well as the very building we are standing in.
Once an especially formal place, it was known for hosting foreign dignitaries and, as such, military salutes were common. "Unfortunately, the force of the guns would often cause the buildings to shake and plaster would rain down from the ceiling", says Thurston.
We are stood in what was once an officers' quarters at the height of World War II. The house is one of many heritage properties set in a horseshoe formation on the Sausalito side of The Golden Gate Bridge, part of a military complex known as Fort Baker that took shape between 1901 and 1915.
Cavallo Point Lodge is set among rolling hills and looks towards San Francisco Bay and the Golden Gate Bridge.Credit: Kodiak Greenwood
Though its military use peaked during World War II, an army presence remained until the late 1990s and it was not until 2002 that it was officially transferred to National Park Service.
For some years after, the buildings fell into disrepair. A lack of funding or clear sense of direction saw the grass grow and the mortar crumble, but after being subsequently acquired by Passport Resorts, a radical transformation was revealed in 2008.
Today the property, branded Cavallo Point Lodge, is among the cream of San Francisco's luxury boutique hotels. It's partly down to the unique location. Situated among the lush, rolling hills of Golden Gate National Parks, the set up faces the San Francisco Bay, while the northern tip of the Golden Gate Bridge feels almost within touching distance. This proximity to the city – roughly eight kilometres – combined with such a tranquil, bucolic setting creates a powerful juxtaposition. It's noticeable the moment you arrive. One moment you're navigating the steep, undulating streets of San Francisco, weaving through multiple lanes of traffic, the next your taxi is dodging a deer as you pull up amid manicured lawns and towering pine trees. There's a sense you've stumbled upon a well kept secret.
Cavallo Point Lodge, Healing Arts Centre and Spa exterior.Credit: Kodiak Greenwood
Continuing the tour, Thurston explains great care was taken with the renovations. A former ranger on Alcatraz and a passionate amateur historian, he's clearly in his element. While the lead paint on the ceilings – installed years back to help prevent the plaster showering incidents – was painstakingly removed, a light-handed approach was taken to installing extensive retro fittings rather than just tearing things down. Consequently, the houses, now serving as 68 historic rooms and suites, maintain a wonderful, creaking grandeur, with high ceilings, wooden floorboards and intricately detailed fixtures.
But the heritage houses are just one side of the coin. When the project was taken on, building codes dictated that any new infrastructure must drastically contrast the old. It's a concept that was not only taken onboard but gleefully run with.
On a hillside perch behind the swish central reception and dining area, 74 contemporary rooms and suites are housed inside what resemble state of the art Scandinavian-style homes.
Cavallo Point Lodge, Contemporary suite interior.Credit: Kodiak Greenwood
Opening the door to my own, I'm astonished by a slick set up that would have 007 himself spluttering into his Martini.
Floor to ceiling windows offer mind-bending panoramic views over San Francisco Bay and the Golden Gate Bridge. A gas fireplace flickers invitingly from a vertical wooden panel separating the spacious king-sized bed from the plush lounge area and a sunken bathtub and power shower complete the fit out nicely. What's more, the design and construction have a heavy emphasis on sustainability, with solar power, radiant heat floors and renewable materials in keeping with the national park setting.
Rounding off our tour, I'm offered a sneak peek at a few other more discreet areas. Inside another grand heritage building, a dusty bowling alley cluttered with wooden pins has been earmarked for renovation while the former army brig gatehouse is being transformed into a coffee shop and bake house. A short golf cart ride away at Horseshoe Cove, the Travis Marina Bar also offers some of the best views of The Golden Gate Bridge from any watering hole in San Francisco.
Brit Thurston, doorman, tour guide.
When I'm dropped back at Sean Connery HQ, I'm left with a series of agonising First World dilemmas. Should I make use of the heated outdoor jacuzzi at the nearby 1000-square-metre Healing Arts Centre and Spa, enjoy a signature cocktail at the Farley Bar or make plans for a French inspired, Northern Californian dinner at Murray Circle restaurant? Or maybe I should just recline on my outdoor deck with a glass of red wine to watch the fog banks roll in across the Bay?
"People are very passionate about Cavallo Point," says Thurston as we part company. "A lot of people were born here, grew up here, spent many formative years here with their families. It really has a sense of place."
Yes. The kind of place you really don't want to leave.
Qantas flies direct from Sydney to San Francisco, up to six times a week; see qantas.com.
STAYING THERE
Cavallo Point Lodge is eight kilometres from San Francisco and 34 kilometres from San Francisco International Airport. A historic queen room starts at $429 (June to November); see cavallopoint.com
Guy Wilkinson was a guest of Cavallo Point Point Lodge and San Francisco Travel.
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