This was published 9 years ago
Cruising from Stockholm to Copenhagen
The only difficult thing about this luxury cruise on the Baltic is leaving it, writes Susan Bredow.
By Susan Bredow
Stockholm Archipelago and skerries. Credit: iStock
The Silver Whisper is almost brushing the sides of the Stockholm Archipelago as it glides down the narrow waterway towards the Baltic Sea.
It's early evening but at this time of year it stays light for 21 hours a day, so there is plenty of time to admire the prettily painted wooden summerhouses between tall trees along the shore.
On a luxury cruise such as this, the ship is as much a destination as its ports of call and excitement dictates there are many things to do during these first hours onboard.
The humidor lounge.Credit: Michel Verdure
Unpacking isn't one of them. Our effervescent butler, May, has introduced me to a new level in sumptuous living by having already done that.
My clothes are hanging in neat, logical order in the walk-in wardrobe and the empty suitcases have been stowed out of sight.
Before exploring our home for the next seven days, May pours a glass of champagne and we gorge on the view from our private verandah.
Unsurprisingly, given Silversea is an Italian family-owned line, food onboard is a big deal.
We can't relax completely though. There are weighty decisions to be made, such as the brand of toiletries we want in our marble bathroom. We opt for Bulgari in big containers placed next to the bath, in the shower cubicle and on each on the two hand basins. They're kept topped up as if we haven't used a drop.
We have already chosen our pillows and bed covers under which fine Pratesi linen is slipped from a menu provided with our pre-sail documents. These arrived some weeks ago printed as a book with our journey – Stockholm to Copenhagen – and our names on the cover.
We have also confirmed shore excursions at each port of call: Tallinn in Estonia, the Russian port of St Petersburg and the Finnish capital, Helsinki.
The Silver Whisper.
During the week in her care, our butler keeps the bar fridge stocked with our favourite beverages, keeps the ice bucket full, makes dinner reservations at any of the half dozen dining options onboard, turns down our bed and, several times a day whether we are aware of it or not, slips in to ensure our suite is immaculate.
Her cheery voice is the first thing we hear each morning as she delivers us coffee before breakfast.
Silversea's formalities are straight out of a Somerset Maugham novel with nice if outmoded flourishes such as stationery printed with: From the Suite of Mr and Mrs [man's name] [family name] and ladies being escorted to dinner on the arms of formally dressed waiters. The latter is particularly useful if wearing stilettos and after a couple of large cocktails.
Scallops at Fiskebaren,Copenhagen. Credit: Susan Bredow
We have occasion to dress formally but, unfortunately, for just one evening. It's no small effort to haul a dinner suit and its trimmings halfway round the world.
A dress code is nominated for each day and it's most commonly "informal" which means "dresses or trouser suits" for women and "jackets, tie optional" for men.
There is no sign of anyone in a singlet and thongs and this has nothing to do with the cool weather. Many men choose to wear ties and women create a sense of occasion by donning sparkly attire in the evening.
The Neva River with Isaakievskiy Cathedral in St Petersburg. Credit: iStock
Service throughout the voyage is formal but friendly with greetings often by name. Nothing is too much trouble and there is never a feeling you are taking up too much time.
As the crews' tips are included in the cost of the trip, the wide smiles seem genuine.
Unsurprisingly, given Silversea is an Italian family-owned line, food is a big deal. The Silver Whisper's kitchens cater to every whim, health and religious need.
While the cooking is based on the classic European hotel-school style, it leans towards Italian. A wild boar ragu in the slow-food, La Terrazza restaurant is one of the most delicious dishes of many on the trip.
To celebrate a significant birthday we book and pay a supplement of $40 a person for an evening at the Relais and Chateaux restaurant, Le Champagne, and enjoy classic dishes of caviar, foie gras, crayfish and duck accompanied by super crisp service. It feels exclusive and special.
In the main dining area, The Restaurant, a gala night has a generous serving of lobster on the menu. A variety of caviar and fine wine is available from special menus and at an extra cost but the champagne (Heidsieck Monopole Blue), generously portioned cocktails and a variety of consistently good international wines and beers are free.
On Pool Deck, The Grill serves aged steaks and seafood cooked at the table on hot rocks. We're wrapped in woollen rugs for the crisp night air and a bib to catch the splashes.
Healthy options on every menu have the calories noted. The bottomless glass of wine can be harder to track.
The small gym is always busy and with a well-stocked book and DVD library, expert destination briefings, and shops selling jewellery, clothes and souvenirs, there is much to do apart from eating and drinking.
There's golf putting, team trivia, board games and bridge and live music wherever we go. A quartet – saxophone, guitar, keyboard and drums – a pianist, a duo and singers enchant. The music content is ramped up during our one full day at sea as we cruise from Helsinki to our final destination of Copenhagen.
A humidor lounge sells cigars from a selection of more than a thousand and serves them with Armagnac or cognac, a liqueur or port while the ship is at sea. There's a casino too which operates only while the ship is sailing the relatively calm grey Baltic.
Each night there's a stage show featuring an excellent resident cast which performs themed entertainments such as Fabalicious (an ABBA-themed show), Signed Sealed and Delivered (Motown) and High Cs (opera).
Almost everything on board is included in the fare except for Wi-Fi and spa visits where teeth whitening is a popular beauty treatment.
Silver Whisper and identical sister ship, Silver Shadow, carry only 360 passengers each and, being comparatively small, are able to navigate much closer to city centres than larger craft.
This is particularly noticeable in St Petersburg where we sail up the Neva River to the English Embankment, a 10-minute walk from the Hermitage and other attractions. Larger ships must berth an hour's bus ride from town.
In Stockholm, Tallinn and Copenhagen we are also a short distance from the city centre and in Helsinki we step off the ship in the heart of the town.
It's convenient to be taken from port to port, arrive well fed and watered and have no more to do than explore the surroundings.
In the northern Baltic we experience the White Nights, where from June 11 to early July the sun nears the horizon but never fully sets. It's interesting being able to walk in light at midnight but we appreciate the double set of curtains that makes the suite dark enough for sleep.
There is a variety of passengers, but most are active and over 50. In port, everyone is busy sightseeing.
The main focus of this cruise is St Petersburg and we are there for three days. There is a lot to pack in.
Silversea has a loyalty discount program called the Venetian Society. Benefits include discounts on voyages for guests and their friends, onboard spending credits and perks such as free laundry.
A couple of days into the cruise we are preparing for it to end with forms to fill out for disembarkation. Two nights from our final destination we are invited to farewell cocktails with the captain.
This totally spoilt life is going to be over too soon and on the inside I'm saying: "Don't stop the boat. I don't want to get off."
SHORE LEAVE: THE BEST OF THE BALTIC
Thick walls and medieval towers, ancient churches and ankle-wrenching cobbled squares are features of the charming Estonian capital, Tallinn. Buses can't navigate the narrow streets so jump on a bicycle or walk to explore. Sights such as Fat Margaret Tower, St Olav's Church, Peter the Great's Summer Palace (built but not lived in) and pretty parks are all within a short radius of the city centre.
The Hermitage is one of the most stunning museums in the world, both for its collection of more than 3 million art works and for the fabulous opulence of its buildings, including the Winter Palace of the former Russian royalty in St Petersburg. Sign up onboard for an official tour which takes you inside before the museum opens to the public.
While nature is a dominant feature of life in the Finnish capital, Helsinki, man-made structures such as the beautiful Rock Church, the giant Russian orthodox Uspenski Cathedral, Parliament House, the National Opera House and the Olympic Stadium stand out. Helsinki has some of the best neoclassical architecture in the world which can be seen along the main shopping street, the Esplanade.
Set aside a day to explore Djurgarden a green island that was once the royal hunting grounds in the middle of Stockholm. Today it is stocked with interesting museums including The Wasa, ABBA, Skansens, Nordiska, and museums dedicated to sports and biology. There's even a museum devoted to alcohol and plenty of watering holes for when you get thirsty. There's also an aquarium, Grona Lund's amusement park and lovely parks.
If you can't get into Noma in Copenhagen, let former Noma chefs feed you. Matthew Orlando's Amass serves fresh locally sourced food in a disused shipyard; ex-Noma chefs run the super-cool Fiskebaren in the old meat packing district; Christian Puglisi's Relae is in the Norrebro residential district; across the road Puglisi has a second more casual food shop and wine bar, Manfreds & Vin. In a narrow inner-city terrace Samuel Nutter and Victor Wagman of Bror serve delicious set-menu meals on estate crockery bought in 100-kilogram lots.
TRIP NOTES
GETTING THERE
Silversea Baltic cruises start in Stockholm and end in Copenhagen or vice versa. Emirates flies to Stockholm via Dubai. Thai flies to Stockholm via Bangkok. Singapore Airlines flies to Copenhagen via Singapore.
CRUISING THERE
Silversea's Silver Whisper has several Baltic cruises planned during the northern summer of 2015 from $4150. See silversea.com or phone 02 9255 0600.
Susan Bredow travelled at her own expense.
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