This was published 9 years ago
Detour to Iceland: natural wonders' proximity to Reykjavik airport makes island a popular stopover
Hot pools, geysers, ravines, waterfalls and other stunning natural wonders close to its capital Reykjavik make Iceland a popular stopover for northern tourists.
By Patricia Maunder
Iceland
Iceland is such an extraordinary, almost other-worldly place that a few weeks could easily slip by here, marvelling at glaciers, icebergs, volcanoes, lava fields, auroras and many other sights unlike anything at home. However, this island nation is also popular for short European side trips and trans-Atlantic stopovers because of several natural wonders close to the capital, Reykjavik.
Among the most impressive is Thingvellir National Park, a major attraction on the Golden Circle tourist route. Though far from superstitious, I quickly get the feeling that there is something magical about this geologically and historically significant UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As I stroll along a section of the dramatic rift valley formed by the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates' divergence, the dark basalt cliffs draw closer together, and vegetation nestled in their craggy surfaces becomes more luxuriant. The deeper I go into this narrowing chasm, the more I sense that inexplicable magic, conjuring thoughts of fairytales, Viking sagas ... and Game of Thrones (Thingvellir is among the television show's locations).
Hot spots: Crowds loll in the geothermal waters of Blue Lagoon, Iceland.
Eventually reaching a dead end, I scramble to the surface and look down on some inaccessible sections of this giant crack in the earth: narrow fissures of tortured stone, and areas filled with mineral-rich, clear blue or green waters. One such pool also glitters with thousands of coins. Watching my contribution's shimmering descent, I remember the enchantment of childhood. It's that kind of place.
Viking settlers were the first humans attracted to this area, establishing the world's oldest parliament here in AD930. Nothing remains of this era, so I explore the ruins of the site's 18th century political denouement, and a few later buildings that underscore Thingvellir's centrality to Icelandic history.
Waterfalls are among the park's other attractions, but they are nothing compared to Gullfoss, a thundering cascade further along the route. This seemed unlikely as I approached by road, from which there is little to see but flat grassland.
Double vision: Water thunders over the two tiers of the Gullfoss waterfall.
Setting out along the boardwalk, a distant hiss and plume of spray hint at the spectacular two-tiered waterfall that suddenly comes into view, hidden as it is within a canyon. First tumbling over a wide, relatively low rocky ledge, the waters of Gullfoss then take a sharp turn before plummeting into a deep ravine, vanishing from sight.
I explore this dramatic performance from several vantage points, including a natural platform thrusting out between the first and second falls. Enveloped in misty spray, I am awestruck, and already contemplating a return visit – preferably under sunshine, when vivid rainbows arch across these wild waters.
A very different aquatic show is a few minutes' drive away: Strokkur, reportedly the world's most reliable geyser, erupts every five minutes or so. (The Great Geysir is adjacent, but after attracting tourists for centuries, and giving its name to all such spouting hot springs, it is now essentially dormant.)
Puffin stuff: The cartoon-cute bird nests on Icleand's coasts but is more readily seen in souvenir shops.
I join the crowd of Strokkur-watchers: a pool of water about two metres wide slowly bubbles, then boils, before suddenly surging ominously and shooting 20 or 30 metres into the air. The water drains back into what looks like a giant plughole, and the sequence begins again.
Mesmerised by several such eruptions, I finally drag myself away to explore this sulphur-scented geothermal area's steaming vents, bubbling mud and an unearthly blue pool.
I am also drawn to the puffin merchandise at the visitor centre's vast souvenir shop. This cartoon-cute bird, which nests along Iceland's coast, is interpreted in myriad ways, including plush toys from tiny to two-metres tall. No wonder some Icelanders call souvenir stores puffin shops.
There she blows: Strokkur is thought to be the world's most reliable geyser, erupting every five minutes or so.
Strokkur (and its puffin shop) is the Golden Circle's third highlight. This 300-kilometre loop from Reykjavik can be conquered in half a day, including on one of numerous bus tours from the capital, but is best enjoyed with time to linger and also visit other attractions along the way.
Between Reykjavik and the airport is the Blue Lagoon, my last taste of this island defined and constantly re-formed by water, ice and fiery subterranean forces. I had seen photos of Iceland's most recognisable tourist destination, and questioned the hefty prices, but stepping from the visitor complex to behold this big, milky-blue geothermal spa, I know at once that it is equal to the hype.
In the water's 38-degree embrace, I daub my face with silica mud found in pots around the pool's edge, and simply relax. Enjoying one of those elusive natural highs, I feel no need to wade over to the bar. Everywhere, people are smiling serenely, or with amazed delight, as steam billows from this aquatic haven in the middle of a jagged, black lava field.
It is difficult to believe the airport is minutes away, and that soon I will be on a plane bound for the real world, where magic is not so easy to believe in.
THE FACTS
FLY Icelandair offers free Reykjavik stopovers between numerous European and North American cities (icelandair.com). There are also cheap flights from mainland Europe, including London return with EasyJet from A$136 (easyjet.com).
STAY Apartment K's stylish studios and apartments in Reykjavik's cool 101 District start at A$104 (apartmentk.is).
EAT Make an early start (from 7am) with a tasty, wholesome breakfast at cosy-meets-Scandinavian-sleek Bergsson Mathus (bergsson.is).
MORE visiticeland.com
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