God, it looks like Daniel

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This was published 10 years ago

God, it looks like Daniel

Inside the Hotel Daniel, an exotic boudoir of lush colour.

Inside the Hotel Daniel, an exotic boudoir of lush colour.

Brian Johnston is delighted to find a Paris hotel where the exotic awaits behind its traditional facade.

From the outside of the Hotel Daniel, there are no surprises. I would expect to see battered cars parked higgledy-piggledy on the pavement, a severe townhouse, wrought-iron balconies prim with displays of geraniums. This is Paris, after all.

Then I step inside and into an exotic boudoir of lush colour.

Songbirds and flowers erupt on the wallpaper, and creamy orchids bloom from glazed pots. On the walls, a display of blue porcelain dishes suggests I'm in China, but an explosion of red Kazakhstan rugs covers the floor, and the mother-of-pearl furniture is surely Syrian. Plush sofas are country English. When I sit down on one, it envelops me in the plump hug of a matronly aunt.

The Daniel isn't your average boutique hotel. It's a magpie vision of the Far and Middle East that improbably comes together in an Aladdin's cave of delights. The interior designer is London-based Lebanese woman Tarfa Salam, but she has managed to perfectly capture the 18th-century French fashion for orientalism, mixing chinoiserie and hints of the harem with pastoral scenes straight out of Versailles. Its colourful exuberance makes me smile.

As in many European city-centre hotels, my room is compact and barely has enough space for my suitcase. I wrestle it into a corner where it does nothing but offend the room's impeccably placed antique furnishings. Though there'll be no cat swinging, the room exudes cosiness - something many hotels attempt but few genuinely achieve. The room has a vaguely 18th-century style, with a writing desk on spindly legs that would make me feel like Marie Antoinette if it weren't for the internet socket.

I like the whimsical wallpaper, where Chinese kite flyers in bright colours play, and the marble sensuality of the petite but perfectly arranged bathroom.

The restaurant is pocket-size, too, but big on flavour. The Daniel is part of the Relais & Chateaux brand, noted for its fine food, so it's no surprise the French cuisine is top notch. But it's also sometimes surprising: my veal comes flavoured with Sichuan peppers, as if to remind my palate of the Chinese motifs that pop up all over the place in the decor.

I like the dining area best at breakfast time when coloured-glass ceiling panels take on a morning glow and sunlight winks off glassware. In these rich surrounds, the assortment of breads and rolls seems contrastingly austere. Actually, the chef will cook breakfast if I want but, to me, there's no more satisfying way to start the day in Paris than with the cracking of baguette crust, and fingers buttery from croissants.

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Shortly after, it's time to stroll the streets. Though the hotel is on a quiet road in the 8th arrondissement, the Champs-Elysees is just five minutes in one direction, the Faubourg Saint-Honore in the other. The latter doesn't have immediate flash and bustle but, away from the busy tourist hordes, I reckon it offers a better neighbourhood feel. This is where fashionable locals come to shop for designer books, homeware and perfume, or to sit in cafes where display cabinets are luscious with ornate pastries.

The 8th arrondissement is also the epicentre of haute couture, from famous brand names to up-and-coming designers. My wallet is as skinny as a fashion model, but that doesn't bother me: I'm happy to window shop (window lick, the French call it) at stylish clothes arranged like museum displays. Shopping apart, I love the Faubourg Saint-Honore because it's the ultimate Parisian people-watching experience, from waiters in black hovering over marble-top tables to perfumed mistresses teetering by on high heels, dragging chihuahuas on Yves Saint Laurent leads.

By mid-afternoon I'm circling back to the Hotel Daniel for afternoon tea in the lounge. Pink and green macarons match the decor, as do the exotic teas. Scented steam floats upwards and parrots peek from the wallpaper's leafy thickets. In a world of bland hotels, this place has character galore. I feel as if I've stepped into the parlour of a pasha, slightly decadent but wonderfully sexy. I sip on my Lapsang Souchong and tuck in to tarte tatin, just happy to be here, where a little piece of 18th-century China and 21st-century France so elegantly collide.

The writer stayed in Paris courtesy of Relais & Chateaux.

TRIP NOTES

GETTING THERE

Emirates flies from Sydney to Paris via Dubai. 1300 303 777, emirates.com/au.

STAYING THERE

Hotel Daniel, 8 Rue Frederic Bastiat, Paris. 1300 121 341, relaischateaux.com/danielparis.

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