This was published 10 years ago
Gourmet getaways
Escape, relax and dine - and then tuck yourself into bed at some of Victoria's best foodie escapes.
By Mary O'Brien
Holiday hook: Catch your own trout in one of the ponds at Tuki Retreat, then have it cooked in the rustic stables-restaurant.
A dining room with character, a delicious meal whipped up from great ingredients, the comfort of warm service and knowing there's a welcoming bed down the corridor – that's my idea of heaven.
It might be fine dining in a well-known spot, heading off further afield to regional champions or striking gold in a rustic retreat, it's all the more enjoyable when you don't have to head home afterwards. Here are a few of the top gourmet retreats.
Flinders Hotel, Flinders
Luxury: The historic Flinders Hotel now offers tasteful accommodation to go along with its fine dining experience.Credit: Eddie Jim
A relatively new kid on the block, the Flinders Hotel is building a reputation as a serious foodie destination. Stylish accommodation opened last September, though chef Pierre Khodja has been plying his trade in the refurbished hotel for a few years, first in the casual Deck bistro and more recently in the fine dining restaurant, Terminus. Born in North Africa and raised in France, Khodja explores his roots in the weekend-only dining room. Try the paella or maybe the seasonal field mushrooms and polenta at the Deck but the two- and three-course dinner menu at Terminus is a special experience. The Quarters, the new accommodation behind the historic pub, tastefully blends into its surroundings and has luxuriously kitted-out rooms. We stroll to the pier and then have a long walk on the beach – much needed after a night of indulging. Foodies could kick on to pick strawberries at Sunny Ridge, do some tasting at Main Ridge Dairy or see what the garden is producing at Heronswood. flindershotel.com.au
Royal Mail, Dunkeld
Rated as one of the most exciting regional restaurants in Australia, foodie fans were shocked to learn that superstar chef Dan Hunter was leaving to run his own place. The good news is that gifted Robin Wickens (a former Victorian young chef of the year with experience in top British restaurants) is taking the reins. If you want to experience the tasting menu, book well in advance as the tables are limited. The open kitchen is pure theatre and the bistro (the same room as the restaurant) food is impressive, too. If you like modern and minimalist, stay in the hotel rooms – 17 have been recently upgraded. Nothing beats a coffee in the courtyard, gazing at the brooding Mount Sturgeon. If you really want to get away from it all, try the cottages a few kilometres away. Part of the deal is that some nice member of staff will pick you up for dinner and drop you home. What more could you ask for? Confession – we tried walking but got lost!
Provenance, Beechworth
It might be a 3.5-hour drive from Melbourne but Provenance is more than worth the effort. Chef Michael Ryan has a swag of awards and a loyal following on Twitter so it's no wonder you have to book ahead. The beauty of eating here is that you can stay in the elegant rooms of the former stables out the back. Unfortunately there are only four rooms so forward planning is highly recommended. Ryan, who was the 2013 Good Food Guide chef of the year, is known for his sophisticated and innovative dishes, often with a Japanese touch, and the elegant dining rooms (an old bank) add to the sense of occasion. Pack your little black dress or smart suit. theprovenance.com.au
Tuki Retreat, Smeaton
Rediscover your inner hunter-gatherer over a couple of fishing rods and a choice of ponds full of trout. Afterwards, Robert and Jan Jones will cook your catch in their rustic stables-restaurant in the Loddon-Campaspe valley in central Victoria. Off the beaten track, this is the place to unwind in the simple stone cottages that overlook the ponds and valley. After we check in, Robert hops on his bike to show us our cottage and we follow gingerly in our car. The food draws locals and foodies here with wholesome dishes cooked well by the hosts. Trout is caught fresh every day, and paté and smoked trout are made on site. Meat comes from the farm's sheep, which are fed on native pastures, and Robert makes sausages using an old family recipe. The stone cottages have fireplaces and verandahs. This is a genuine family-friendly gourmet destination where the littlies can pat a horse, feed the chooks or try their luck in the murky waters. tukiretreat.com.au
Lake House, Daylesford
Lake House has been on the radar for a long time and the crowds just keep on coming. Despite numerous awards, owner-chef Alla Wolf-Tasker doesn't rest on her laurels – the restaurant is still a must-dine destination. Accommodation is simple but if you want to splash out, stay in a waterfront room with views over the gorgeous lake, or the relatively new villas are ideal for those who like more space. Don't forget to pack your finery – you want to look your best when eating in the smart dining room with linen-clad tables. The real star here is the elegant food, and Wolf-Tasker is a long-standing champion of local produce so look out for dishes using delicacies from, say, Oz Eels, Istra Smallgoods or Holy Goat Cheese. The tasting menu is a truly rewarding experience but make sure you book ahead if you would like a coveted window seat. Yes, it can be daunting to face breakfast after a night of feasting so a few rounds of the gardens are almost obligatory. Oh, if you haven't had enough indulgences, don't forget the spa. lakehouse.com.au
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