A few expert tips will help you enjoy this challenging but magical country, writes Nina Karnikowski.
Through the smoky haze I can see the world's most famous monument. And there are no tourists around.
The incredible backroads of Rajasthan offer sights and experiences from the bizarre to the beautiful.
If you haven't seen the majestic cat in the wild, a luxury safari is perfect.
Transforming an 18th century warrior fort into a cruisy hotel was not without its challenges.
Gardens, white palaces and tranquil lakes make Udaipur a hub for the lavish weddings of India's crazy rich.
Sometimes you have to accept the selfie-taking masses as an integral part of an experience.
A visit leaves an impenetrable mark, for this is a country of brilliant colour and culture; from the blue city of Jodhpur, the golden temple of Amritsar to the saris left to dry in the breeze. From the magnificent Taj Mahal, the ghats of Varanasi, its southern tea plantations and backwaters, to its singular festivals and the far mountains of Ladakh, this is a country that has much to offer intrepid travellers.