A few expert tips will help you enjoy this challenging but magical country, writes Nina Karnikowski.
Through the smoky haze I can see the world's most famous monument. And there are no tourists around.
A remote corner of India reveals a way of life in greater danger than the magnificent animals around it.
It's unbelievably beautiful, unique and feels safer than many a tourist hotspot ... Yet few venture in.
From imperial showpieces to massive mausoleums, don't miss these six sublime Indian monuments.
It began with an announcement aboard my chartered luxury train between Delhi and Mumbai.
Jodhpur's chaotic markets and stunning Meherangarh Fort are now joined by trendy cafes and beautifully restored buildings.
A visit leaves an impenetrable mark, for this is a country of brilliant colour and culture; from the blue city of Jodhpur, the golden temple of Amritsar to the saris left to dry in the breeze. From the magnificent Taj Mahal, the ghats of Varanasi, its southern tea plantations and backwaters, to its singular festivals and the far mountains of Ladakh, this is a country that has much to offer intrepid travellers.