Lee Tulloch's big travel discoveries of 2014

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This was published 9 years ago

Lee Tulloch's big travel discoveries of 2014

By Lee Tulloch
Texas: an unexpected highlight.

Texas: an unexpected highlight.Credit: iStock

When it all boils down, the reason I travel is to make discoveries, to see what I haven't seen and to find out what I don't know, of which there is much.

These don't have to be Marco-Polo-scale adventures. I'm happy for small enlightenments along the way, which make a year remarkable.

Life happens when you're doing something else, as the saying goes, and this is so true of travel. It's the change to the itinerary, the accident, the delay and instinctive following of one's nose that often leads to the most serendipitous experiences.

This past year in travel has been full of discoveries, expected and unexpected. Although I've stayed in some wonderful hotels, cruised on some fabulous ships and been hosted royally by some very kind people, in the end it's an entirely eclectic collection of modest events that stand out.

A few weeks ago, trying to get my luggage across New York's Fifth Avenue to the Plaza Hotel, the route was blocked by a parade of indigenous people from throughout the Americas, dancing along Fifth Avenue in beautiful folkloric costumes. I found out later the indigenous celebration had been started as a protest against Columbus Day and European colonisation, a bit like our alternate Australia Day, "Invasion Day".

It was the most delightful event, with social groups from all over North and South America participating. I'd never heard of it and if I hadn't been checking into the Plaza at that exact time I would still be ignorant.

I had few surprises this year in the fundamental act of getting around, notably, against expectations, that Italian trains are very good, especially the fast trains between the capitals. I flew for the first time on a couple of airlines I liked very much – Turkish Airlines and Oman Air. On the negative side, I would like never again to be stuck in the back of a plane with a child who screams non-stop for eight hours. Thank you, gods of travel.

In Paris, I did discover a neat transport tip that still makes me chuffed. If you're taking the Eurostar from Gare du Nord, for a ridiculously small fee of €12 ($17), a porter will take up to six pieces of luggage and guide you through immigration and security and get the luggage on board for you with priority boarding. They'll organise a porter at St Pancras, who will do the same at the other end, and put you in a taxi for only £10 ($19). (Great for families.) I would never have thought to ask, except that my friend broke the wheel on her suitcase and couldn't lug it about.

This year, I discovered that camel meat is delicious, and as tender and sweet as lamb if properly grilled, as it is in the street devoted to camel meat restaurants in Salalah, Oman.

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I also discovered that cassata is not that tasteless, fruit-studded frozen block served in the Australian Italian restaurants of my childhood, but an altogether delicious confection of marzipan, creamy sweet ricotta and crystallised fruits. I was lucky enough to have a lesson in making it with the wonderful Fabrizia Lanza at her cooking school on her agricultural estate in the Sicilian countryside, Casa Vecchie. (Fabrizia will be in Australia early next year, so you can learn to make authentic cassata too: see annatascalanza.com.)

If I had a bucket list, which I don't, I would have struck a line through places I hadn't visited before this year – Sicily, the Amalfi Coast, the Greek islands, Guangzhou, Lyon and Texas. Sicily was the highlight, but I also discovered a totally unexpected thing for Fort Worth, the very liveable, slightly daffy Texan cowboy town. Who knew?

I stayed in some pretty swank hotels throughout the year, including being the only guest in an 11-suite Venetian villa, but my favourite hotel experience was one I didn't see coming – a three-night stay at Henry's House on Ortigia Island, Sicily, a family-run bed & breakfast in a lovingly restored 18th-century Baroque palazzo. The beautiful big house, the warm hospitality of the family, and mother's lavish breakfast buffet are the first things that spring to mind when I review the year.

So, if you asked me the highlights of the year, I'd say I ate camel meat, discovered a magnificent bed & breakfast in Sicily, met a few cowboys and got excited about a €12 porter fee on Eurostar.

May 2015 be as unexpected.

lee.tulloch@fairfaxmedia.com.au

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