Home comforts ... the pool at Millar Road, Hawkes Bay.
The Kiwis have been keeping something from us. Yes, we're familiar with their incredible lodges, which blow the mind and budget. But ask a typical New Zealander where they holiday and it's not Huka, Grasmere or Blanket Bay. Baches, as they are known on the North Island (or orbit if you are in the far south of the South Island), are where Kiwis head at weekends or for summer holidays.
Small and rustic or contemporary, architecturally designed houses on fantastic stretches of coastline, the bach (pronounced batch) is part of the Kiwi lifestyle. We've scoured north and south for the best.
North island
Whare Midge, Raglan
Two hours' drive south of Auckland is New Zealand's version of Byron Bay (Byron 30 years ago, that is). Whale Bay is a magnet for surfers, alternative lifestylers and musicians such as Kiwi blues legend Midge Marsden, who owns Whare Midge, at Raglan, on the bay.
Raglan has a dramatic black-sand coastline. Whale Bay is one of the longest, most accessible and consistent left-hand breaks in the world. It must attract hardcore surfers because the water is chilly.
Whare Midge overlooks the pretty inner harbour and we strike it lucky with the weather, which bathes the town and coastline in sunshine. The three-bedroom character home has a laid-back vibe and a fantastic deck overlooking the harbour. Originally built as a boathouse in the early 1940s, it has been Midge's home for 25 years. The master bedroom, with doors opening on to the deck, is the pick of the rooms.
Tuck into the fresh fish and chips at Raglan Seafoods or try the Tongue and Groove and Orca cafes. Vinnies does great gourmet pizzas. The best coffee is in Volcom Lane at a little hole in the wall called Raglan Roast.
Rates at Whare Midge bach start from $NZ200 ($165) a night. Phone +64 7 825 8838, see rohimanu.co.nz.
360 Degrees Over Waiheke
Waiheke Island has lovely beaches, secluded inlets, vineyards, cafes and excellent restaurants. There are hundreds of baches on the island but the bach concept has been given a makeover and here they are upmarket, including at 360 Degrees, owned by Aucklander Jane Ingle.
A stunning, three-level property positioned high on Burrell Road peninsula, 360 Degrees overlooks two beaches, giving guests both sunrise and sunset vistas. The retro-style yet chic kitchen adjoins a dining area and vast living area of high ceilings, with fireplace and huge glass doors opening on to the "sunset" balcony. The upstairs master bedroom opens on to the "sunrise" deck.
You could spend your stay gazing at the view with a glass of Waiheke red in hand but it'd be a pity not to get out and enjoy a coffee at Spice and Charlie Farley's or lunch at Stoneyridge Vineyard. Mudbrick Vineyard and Restaurant offers possibly the island's best dining. Take a stroll to Oneroa village for the boutique craft shops and stock up on everything from cheeses to organic beers and breads at Waiheke Fruit and Veg.
360 Degrees sleeps six and costs from $NZ475 a night. Phone +64 9 3765 248, see 360overwaiheke.co.nz.
Millar Road, Hawkes Bay
Inspired by granddad's bach but with a modern twist, these two cottages are tucked into the Tukituki Hills overlooking the property's own vineyard, Te Awanga, and the Hawkes Bay coastline from Cape Kidnappers to Mahia. Ginny and Jeremy and their son, Greg, bought the property in 2002, replanted the vineyard with sauvignon blanc and pinot gris vines and purpose-built the cottages.
Local artworks grace the walls, there's locally designed linen from Esther Diamond (co-owned by Greg), a cosy wood fire, fully equipped kitchen and ensuites off each of the two bedrooms, plus a separate bathing room with luxurious cradle bath.
Millar Road low-season rates (May to October) start at $NZ400 a night a cottage for use of first bedroom, $NZ100 a night for use of the second bedroom. Phone +64 6 875 1977, see www.millarroad.co.nz.
Coromandel Bach, Otama Beach
This much-lauded holiday home was designed by architect Ken Crosson as a modern interpretation of the bach. The ingenious "shipping container" design folds open to form decks that afford sea views and, at a flick of a switch, fold up into a neatly contained box.
While it was difficult to find in the dark (up a steep gravel driveway off a winding road, with no streetlights or signage), any frustrations were forgotten the next day when the Coromandel's location overlooking Otama Beach and the Mercury Islands could be fully appreciated. The bach bath is on wheels and can be filled with water and wheeled on to the deck to take in the view while you soak, while the property's cane swing seat is a great place to relax. Make sure to bring food and drinks with you as the nearest shopping is a 10-minute drive away.
Coromandel rates start from $NZ500 a night and it sleeps up to eight. Phone +64 21 058 5560, see holidayhouses.co.nz/properties/7261.
South island
Lands End, Golden Bay
This place crops up in celebrity interviews about where New Zealand stars choose to holiday. The scenic two-hour drive from Nelson passes seaside villages, orchards and vineyards until a winding road takes you over Takaka Hill, with views back to Nelson on one side and vistas of snow-capped mountains on the other. Takaka village is home to seachangers, artisans and other friendly locals and is an ideal place in which to refuel with a coffee at the Wholemeal Cafe and to stock up on supplies for your bach stay at nearby Golden Bay.
Lands End is 50 metres from the sands of Tata Beach and is an original Kiwi bach, with a retro feel. It has two bedrooms with a double bed in each, a single bed and a rollout. There's also a fireplace, a deck with sea views and an unpretentious fit-out. Nearby you can visit the world's clearest springs, have a hearty meal washed down with home brew at the eclectic Mussel Inn and tuck into breakfast and great coffee at Totally Roasted, in nearby Pohara.
From $NZ120 a night. Phone +64 3 525 8800, email nick@goldenproperty.com.
Eastbrook Bach, Marlborough Sounds
Tucked away in bushland off Queen Charlotte Drive, this sweet two-storey bach is a scenic 10-minute drive from Havelock and offers distant views of the magnificent Marlborough Sounds. It's owned by a Nelson-based couple who have combined their love of junk shops and antiques with old-fashioned elbow grease to restore this quintessential bach.
Ideal for one or two families, the property has honey-coloured floorboards, a roaring fire, floor-to-ceiling bifold doors opening on to a deck, eclectic furnishings and an antique claw-foot bath. Across the road and nearby are bushwalks, including the renowned Queen Charlotte Track, while dinner can be had at the famous Mussel Pot. Visitors staying more than seven nights enjoy a free three-hour cruise into Kenepuru Sound aboard the couple's sleek 36-footer, the Last Resort. Private charters also available on request.
From $NZ180 a night, for four. Phone +64 2 149 5616, see bookabach.co.nz (listing 6609).
Wai Taha, Lake Hawea, Wanaka
This cosy, two-bedroom 1950s crib sits on a stunning lake looking across to snow-capped peaks and is a 15-minute drive from the alpine resort of Wanaka. Inside, there's a queen-size bed and single bed in one room and a double bed in the second bedroom. A divan in the living room means the bach can sleep five. In summer you can swim in the lake.
Nearby, the fast-flowing Timaru Creek is renowned for its fly fishing. Stroll the Timaru River Track, then it's back to the bach for a glass of local pinot noir in front of a fireplace made of schist stone.
From $NZ150 a night, minimum three-night stay. Phone +64 3 443 7305, see bookabach.co.nz/Wai_Taha.
The writer was a guest of Tourism New Zealand.
TRIP NOTES
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand flies daily from Sydney. Passengers can then connect with 27 domestic NZ destinations. The airline also has "Bach inspired" lounges at Auckland, Christchurch, Wellington, Melbourne, Sydney and Los Angeles airports.
See airnewzealand.com.au.
Sign up for the Traveller newsletter
The latest travel news, tips and inspiration delivered to your inbox. Sign up now.