Simple tastes ... Naples' ovens are wood fired.

See Naples and dine

Paola Totaro returns to the city of her birth, in the shadow of Vesuvius, where a tightly-held culinary history is fuelled by fire.

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Italy, Naples. Family on scooters.

Diamond in the dirt

Fearing the worst, Shaney Hudson is instead won over by Naples, via naughty relics, soccer shrines and the world's best pizza.

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