Port Lincoln, South Australia: Travel guide and things to do

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This was published 9 years ago

Port Lincoln, South Australia: Travel guide and things to do

Fish finders ... a group of sea lions frolics near Hopkins Island, just off Port Lincoln.

Fish finders ... a group of sea lions frolics near Hopkins Island, just off Port Lincoln.

Port Lincoln really is the keystone of the Eyre Peninsula. A substantial city located on Boston Bay (a bay which is more than three and a half times the size of Sydney Harbour) and nestled in on the easterly side of the Eyre Peninsula over the years it has become the most important grain and fishing port in the region. As a result it has become the informal capital of the whole peninsula.

Port Lincoln is located 656 km west of Adelaide, has a population of over 13 000, a rainfall of 488mm per annum, and enjoys a near-perfect Mediterranean climate. It is a large and reasonably sophisticated centre which is economically driven by the huge grain-handling facilities (the foreshore is dominated by the 47-metre-high grain silos which have a total capacity of over 337 500 tonnes), the canning and fish processing works, lambs, wool and beef, fertiliser production and, in recent times, the vast wealth which has been made as a result of tuna farming for the lucrative Japanese market. It currently boasts Australia's largest commercial fishing fleet and fish farming has become so important that Port Lincoln now has kingfish farms, mussel farms, oyster farms, experimental lobster farms and abalone farms.

It should never be underestimated that the anglers (predominantly of Italian ancestry) of Port Lincoln are very, very wealthy men. The money which can be made from tuna fishing verges on the fantastic. The Japanese have paid over $40,000 a tonne for specially prepared tuna for sashimi and this has resulted in many of the tuna fishermen becoming multimillionaires. One of the most famous local tuna-fishing success stories is that of Dean Lukin who, in 1984, with the assistance of an Eastern European and USSR boycott of the Los Angeles Games, won Australia's first weightlifting gold medal at an Olympic Games.

Good taste has not necessarily accompanied the tuna fishing wealth and Port Lincoln has become famous for its preposterously large, and usually vulgar, houses. Although, in fairness, the Lincoln Cove Marina is not only tasteful but an ideal waterfront destination offering residential and holiday accommodation.

The Parnkalla people occupied the area prior to white settlement. The first European visitor was Matthew Flinders who discovered the harbour in February 1802 and, in a rare act of self-indulgence, possibly precipitated by the death of eight of his sailors, he named it 'in honour of my native province'. Flinders had been born at Donington in Lincolnshire on 16 March 1774. He named the bay, island and point after his home town of Boston and Cape Donington was named after his birthplace.

The port quickly became an important resting point for sealers from Kangaroo Island and whalers from Port Jackson who fished and hunted in the Southern Ocean. These new, if somewhat temporary, residents were enthusiastic about the place and so, when the establishment of the colony of South Australia was suggested, Port Lincoln was proposed as a suitable place for the colony's capital.

The task of finding a suitable site was left to the surveyor William Light who the Colonial Office, with a characteristic lack of understanding, expected to inspect nearly 2500 km of coastline in two months. He had already chosen the site of Adelaide when he made a brief visit to Port Lincoln and declared that the harbour entrance was unsafe and there was an absence of fresh water. Light's rejection of the site did not stop settlement. In 1839 the Port Lincoln Special Survey Association was formed and as a result of their labours the township was laid out on the southwesterly shores of Boston Bay. The surveyor, Benjamin Pratt Winter, is remembered in Winter Hill which offers a superb lookout across the city. The first settlers arrived in March 1839 and a plaque nw denotes the site of their landing.

On 20 March 1839 Robert Tod explored the area to the north of Port Lincoln and discovered a river which was named the Tod in his honour.

In the next twenty years the town grew quickly. The Lincoln Hotel, which was the oldest on the Eyre Peninsula, being built in 1840, sadly burnt down in 2000. St Thomas' Anglican Church was built between 1849-50, the local Courthouse dates from 1862 and the Mill Cottage, now the National Trust Museum, was completed in 1866.

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The importance of the town continued to grow as more farmers moved onto the Eyre Peninsula. The construction of a jetty in 1875 and the completion of the rail links to the large sections of the Eyre Peninsula between 1907 and 1926 ensured the town's continued survival and guaranteed its growth. It was during this time that Port Lincoln's harbour was often a sea of masts and sails as the windjammers waited to loaded with wheat before setting sail for the markets of Europe.

Excellent maps of the Lower Eyre Peninsula and the city of Port Lincoln have been mass-produced and are readily available at most tourist spots around the town. They are particularly valuable for finding all the historic locations in the city, as well as the easiest access routes. Port Lincoln is at the junction of the Lincoln and Flinders Highways. There are also major roads going south and west to Whalers Way, Sleaford Bay and Coffin Bay.

Inevitably a town of the size of Port Lincoln has much to interest the traveller. Beyond the town boundaries are attractions like the Glen Forest Animal and Tourist Park, the excellent Winter Hill Lookout, Whalers Way, the Lincoln National Park and Boston Island.

Things to see

Boston Island
5 km offshore, between Port Lincoln and Cape Donington, is Boston Island. First sighted by Matthew Flinders in 1802 the island was settled as early as 1840 when an old slab cottage, which is still standing, was built. Today Boston Island Tours leave the town jetty, opposite the post office on Tasman Terrace, for conducted two-hour day tours, at 2.00 p.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays (numbers pending). They take in the harbour and a tuna farm (in season), as well as the island, tel: (1800) 629 911.

Port Lincoln's Fishing Industry, Recreational Fishing, Sailing, Charters and Tours
A quick overview of the local fishing industry can be had by watching a 15-minute video as well as photographic and interpretive displays which are provided at the Visitor Information Centre. The video can be viewed from 9.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. seven days a week.

Boston Island creates a sheltered area within Boston Bay which is ideal for fishing, as well as sailing. Further north-east is the Sir Joseph Banks Group of Islands and to the south-east is Thorny Passage, both ideal for offshore anglers.

Charter services are available for those interested in fishing, diving, yachting or sightseeing, tel: (1800) 629 911. Call the same number if you are interested in kayaking or walking tours or regional safaris.

Fishing Festivals
Port Lincoln's aquatic links are celebrated in a series of annual festivals: Tunarama (spread out over four days around the Australia Day long weekend in January), the Lincoln Quin's Blue Water Classic Yacht Race in February, the Lincoln Week Regatta in March, the Mediterraneo Festival in April, and the Port Lincoln Game Fishing Club Tournament.

Port Lincoln's Large Houses
Port Lincoln's fishermen have made fortunes out of the tuna industry and some of them have built massive houses. Two of the houses were named 'Dallas' and 'Dynasty', after the television series, and stories of extravagant lifestyles abound. It has been rumoured that one tuna fisherman, envious of his competitor's large house, took an architect to view it and said 'Build me a house that is worth $100 000 more than that'. These houses can be viewed in the area to the northeast of the town beyond the Limani Motel. As if to confirm this wealth a visit to the harbour will instantly reveal millions of dollars worth of tuna fishing boats.

Port Lincoln Court House
On the corner of Washington Street and Adelaide Place (two blocks from Tasman Terrace) is the plain limestone Port Lincoln Court House which was built in 1862. It is now listed by the National Trust.

Mill Cottage Museum
Port Lincoln still has a number of interesting buildings which offer an insight into the early history in the town. The National Trust's Mill Cottage Museum at 20 Flinders Highway, located in Flinders Park (on the Flinders Highway just a short distance from the junction with the Lincoln Highway). The original limestone cottage was built in 1866 by the Bishop family who lived there until the house was handed over to the National Trust in 1971. Open from 2.00 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday (or by appointment) it has an interesting collection of local memorabilia including furniture which was brought from England in 1839.

Settlers' Cottage Museum
Also in Flinders Park is the Settlers' Cottage Museum which stores a collection of historical artifacts and memorabilia from the southern Eyre Peninsula, tel: (1800) 629 911.

Rose-wall Memorial Shell Museum
Port Lincoln boasts an excellent collection of shells and marine creatures, representng a lifetime's private collecting and international trading. It is located in the Eyre Peninsula Old Folks Home at 26 Flinders Highway and can be viewed for a very small fee, tel: (1800) 629 911.

South Australian Seahorse Marine Services
Bookings are essential for visiting this captive seahorse breeding facility. Several species are farmed here for aquariums around the world. There is a mall charge for a 40-minute tour which can be arranged by calling (1800) 629 911 or, for overseas callers, 61 8 8683 3544. It is located 4 km south-west of town at 5 Mallee Crescent. The email address is tracey@saseahorse.com

Axel Stenross Maritime Museum
Situated at 97 Lincoln Highway, the museum includes maritime artifacts, carved wooden dinghies, old tools used in manual boat construction, a working slipway, as wel as photographs and newspaper articles relating to local maritime history, tel: (1800) 629 911. There is a small entry fee.

Kotz Stationary Engines
A collection od stationary petrol and oil engines is on display every day from 9.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. at 24 Baltimore Street, tel: (1800) 629 m911.

Railway Museum
For a small fee visitors can view a collection of railway memorabilia in the old railway station, erected in 1926 of local 'duckpond' limestone. It is located in Railway Place, tel: (1800) 629 911.

Winters Hill Lookout
Winters Hill Lookout (follow the Flinders Highway out of the town centre and turn right onto Winters Hill Road) offers a superb view across Boston Bay towards Boston Island and out to Donington Island and Cape Donington with Port Lincoln stretching out below. It is a truly spectacular viewing spot and allows the visitor a much needed perspective on the whole Port Lincoln-Boston Bay area.

Old Mill Lookout
This old structure (1846) was built as part of a flour mill complex but never used for that purpose. Now serving as a lookout tower with views of the city and of Boston Bay, it is within walking distance of the city centre. Turn off the Flinders Highway into Gloucester Terrace then left into Dorset Place.

Parks and Gardens
Flinders Park is located on the Flinders Highway, 1 km west of the post office. It has a child's playground, gazebo, electric barbecues and seating. just to the north is Puckridge Park on Flaxman St with a s\imilar range of facilities. 4 km north-west of the post office, at Winter Hill, is Brinkworth Reserve which is an open area with electric barbecues ideal for picnics with playground equipment, a cricket pitch with net, a basketball ring and fine views. It is available for a minimal fee and a key deposit, tel: (1800) 629 911.

Boston Bay Wines
Located adjacent the ocean 6 km north of town, on the Lincoln Highway, Boston Bay Wines offers a cabernet sauvignon, merlot, shiraz, spatlise riesling, chardonnay, and a mistelle liqueur. The cellar door is open weekends and public holidays from 11.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. (and daily in December and January) or by appointment. tel: (08) 8684 3600 or, after hours, (08) 8684 3521 or fax: (08) 8684 3637. It can host weddings, conferences and functions and barbecue facilities are available by appointment.

Dellacolline Estate Wines
Located at 34 Whillas Rd (3 km north-west of town), this award-winning winery is open weekends and public holidays from 1.30 p.m. to 4.00 p.m., tel: (1800) 629 911.

Arts and Crafts
Constantia Designer Craftsmen offer a guided tour of their operation so that visitors can view the process of converting raw timber to completed works, via design, construction, final polishing and presentation in he showroom. They are located in Proper Bay Road at the southern edge of town, tel: (1800) 629 911.

Kuju Arts and Crafts (part of the Port Lincoln Aboriginal Community Council) specialise in colourful silk and sceen printing, overlaid on functional items of clothing, and jewellery such as painted emu eggs. They are on Ravendale Rd, tel: (1800) 629 911.

Walking Trails
The Parnkalla and Investigator Walking Trails explore the local coastline. Information on the trails can be obtained from the Visitors Centre, tel: (1800) 629 911.

Roseview Emu Farm and Rose Gardens
10 km north-west of Port Lincoln's centre, in Little Swamp Lane, is Roseview which features 500 rose bushes, as well as perennials, annuals, trees, bushes and shrubs in a park setting. It sells emu oils, leathers and cosmetics in a craft shop. There are also fish ponds, birds, a coffee shop and picnic areas with barbecue facilities. They are open daily from 10.00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. There is a small entry fee, tel: (1800) 629 911.

Glen Forest Animal and Tourist Park
This interesting, all-encompassing tourist and wildlife park is located15 km north of the centre of Port Lincoln in Clarkes Lane, Greenpatch. In essence it is a 400-acre farm with 70 acres dedicated to an animal park and a 60-acre vineyard. It is ideal for family picnics.

The animal park includes koalas, dingos, kangaroos, wombats, sheep (including Damaras), goats, emus, camels, horses, cows, water buffalos, Babe the Pig, ostriches, ducks, peacocks and a bird aviary. Visitors are encouraged to feed and cuddle the baby animals in the nursery.

Other facilities include a putt-putt golf course, free barbecues, undercover picnic areas and a kiosk where supplies can be purchased. Glen Forest is planning to establish a new Interpretive Wetlands and Creek-Line Nature walk. It is open every day (except Christmas Day) from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. For more information ring (08) 8683 3544 or, free-call, (1800) 629 911. The email address is glenforest@turveygroup.com

Lincoln National Park
Port Lincoln also offers access to the beautiful Lincoln National Park, a huge area of 17 226 ha on the southern most tip of the Eyre Peninsula which was dedicated in 1941. It is located 25 km south of Port Lincoln. The excellent Eyre Peninsula Parks brochure (available from the South Australian National Parks and Wildlife Service) describes the main feature of the park as 'a superbly picturesque coastline. A walk to the Flinders Monument vantage point on Stamford Hill, commands magnificent views over the rugged coast, surrounding bays, off-shore islands, and across the water to Port Lincoln.'

The brochure also notes that 'many geographical features about the peninsula bear names given to them by Matthew Flinders in 1802 when, in the Investigator, he explored and charted the southern coastline of Australia. Cape Catastrophe, Memory Cove and eight of the nearby islands bear names of special significance as here eight crewmen of the Investigator died when their cutter went down in heavy seas while they were closely inspecting the coast.' The islands, all located off the southern and eastern coasts of the park, are named Thistle, Taylor, Grindle, Little, Lewis, Hopkin, Smith and Williams - sad reminders of the disaster.

Memory Cove
Although much of the park is accessible by conventional vehicle there are a number of 4WD roads including a superb drive out to Memory Cove which passes through land once cleared in a forlorn and unsuccessful attempt to farm the peninsula. This road also passes the limestone cliffs on the southern edge of the park. This is a wilderness area and entry is by key and permit from the Visitor Information Centre. Entry is restricted to 15 vehicles per day and there are 5 campsites which must be booked at the Visitor Centre.

Memory Cove, which was named by Flinders as a reminder of the tragic accident which took the lives of his eight crewmen, has a replica of a copper plate which Flinders left on a post. The original plate, which is now housed in the Adelaide Public Library, had the following inscription: 'Memory Cove. H.M.S. Investigator, M. Flinders Comr. anchored here on 22nd February 1802. Mr John Thistle, the Master, Mr William Taylor, Midn and six of the crew were most unfortunately drowned near this place from being upset in a boat. The wreck of the boat was found, but their bodies were not recovered. Nautici Cavete!' The Latin at the end means 'Sailor Beware!'

There is a Lincoln National Park sheet which has an excellent map of the whole Jussieu Peninsula.

Mikkira Station
This getaway spot offers camping or day-visit recreation in natural environs, with a definite local koala population. There are birds, bushwalks and a restored 1842 homestead. It is located 26 km south-westof Port Lincoln off Fishery Bay Road. Fees are $10 per day per car and $15 per site, tel: (1800) 629 911.

Whalers Way
32 km to the south of Port Lincoln is the privately owned Whalers Way (entrance is by keys which are available for a fee from the Visitor Information Centre and a number of service stations). The road, less than perfect because of high maintenance costs, runs for 14 km around the coastline and offers excellent views of blowholes, bomboras, dramatic crevasses, capes and cliffs. The whole coastline is pounded by the waves from the southern ocean and the area is home to substantial numbers of kangaroos and emus.

Koppio Smithy Museum
Located 40 km north of Port Lincoln, at Koppio, this display of local history incorporates pioneer homes, an old school, stationary engines, farming equipment, vintage cars and trucks, horse-drawn vehicles, and a barbed wire display. There is a small entry fee, tel: (1800) 629 911.

Tourist information

Port Lincoln Visitor Information Centre
3 Adelaide Pl
Port Lincoln SA 5606
Telephone: (08) 8683 3544, 1800 629 911
Facsimile: (08) 8683 3544

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