Portsea on Victoria's Mornington Peninsula.
Portsea is a popular, but rather exclusive, seaside holiday resort of some 550 people located 6 metres above sea-level and 93 km south of Melbourne. Visitors can take the scenic route along the Nepean Highway or hasten their journey via the Mornington Peninsula Freeway which will take them as far asRosebud.
The Mornington Peninsula juts out from the mainland to form the eastern arm of a pincer movement which almost completely encircles Port Phillip Bay. The narrow pointing fingertip of the peninsula, known as Point Nepean, reaches to within three kilometres of Point Lonsdale at the tip of the western arm. It is between these two headlands that all ships entering Port Phillip Bay must pass. Just east of Point Nepean is Portsea, the westernmost settlement of the Mornington Peninsula.
Although Portsea faces northwards onto the calm waters of Port Phillip Bay the peninsula is so thin at this point that the residential area almost reaches to the southern side of the promontory which faces Bass Strait. This brings some variety and choice to the lives of locals and visitors. The bayside is characterised by calm waters and gently sloping crescent-shaped beaches backed by venerable English trees and presided over by the 1927 Portsea Hotel. By comparison, the small sandy surf beaches along the ocean shore are turbulent and windy and are used for surfing and iron-man competitions. They are regularly broken up by rugged stony headlands and backed by cliffs and steep dunes bound by dense coastal scrub.
Gracious 19th-century mansions and gardens and a profusion of tennis courts demonstrate Portsea's long-standing and on-going popularity as a resort for the wealthy Melbourne establishment. However, stone implements and middens are indications of thousands of years of occupation by the Bunurong Aborigines.
European visitation of the bay dates back to 1802 when Lieutenant Murray spent over three weeks exploring its features. He named Point Nepean and, at Point King, just to the east of Portsea, he thrust the Union Jack proprietorially into native soil. A cairn now marks the spot. Soon afterwards Matthew Flinders entered the bay, thinking it to be Westernport.
When a French scientific expedition arrived to investigate the area in 1802 (see entry on French Island) two men were sent by Governor King to examine the possibility of establishing a British outpost at Port Phillip Bay, thereby forestalling any potential French foothold in the colony. In 1803, a Lieutenant Collins was placed in charge of a convict settlement at Sullivans Bay (now Sorrento). It was abandoned the following year.
The first pastoral run at the western end of the peninsula was taken up in 1837. Other graziers followed, including James Sandle Ford who, in 1840, took up a parcel of land which he named Portsea after his home town in England. He had been transported to Van Dieman's Land in 1830 for 'machine-breaking' in the agricultural unrest that accompanied the industrial revolution in England.
As settlement at Melbourne got under way in the late 1830s there was a growing demand for lime which was used as a mortar in building. Limestone was plentiful on the Mornington Peninsula and a number of kilns were set up by men such as Ford. The remnants can be seen at Point King. Between them the graziers and lime-burners devastated the original vegetation, thus permitting today's dense tea-tree scrub to take over.
In the early 1850s a ship entered the bay carrying passengers stricken with yellow fever. Consequently a quarantine station was set up in 1852, just west of the present townsite. Some of the original limestone buildings remain.
A fort with barracks was built at Point Nepean in 1882 to defend the headlands of Port Phillip Bay during a period when there were pervasive fears of a Russian invasion. Local limestone proved ideal for the construction of underground passages and, by the end of the 19th century, the fort was allegedly the most heavily armoured outpost in the Southern Hemisphere.
In 1967 Point Nepean earned significant notoriety when the incumbent Australian prime minister Harold Holt went missing while spearfishing off Cheviot Beach. His body was never recovered. The offshore waters are now known as the Harold Holt Marine Reserve.
Today Portsea is a an up-market holiday spot (with rather up-market accommodation) and a dormitory area for wealthier Melbourne employees.
In January, Portsea hosts the Portsea Pro-Am Classic, the Pier to Pub Swim, the Mellbourne to Hobart and Melbourne to Davenport Yacht Races and the Portsea Swim Classic.
Things to see
Tourist Information
Tourist information can be obtained from the excellent Dromana Information Centre, tel: (1800) 804 009 or (03) 5987 3078. The Sorrento Information Centre is nearer to hand and so may have more details, tel: (03) 5984 5678.
Portsea Yacht Charters
The best way to experience the beauty of Port Phillip Bay and the exciting waters of the Victorian coastline is to take a cruise with Portsea Yacht Charters who run a variety of one day, overnight and extended cruises starting from the Portsea-Sorrento area. This is an outstanding way to experience the harbour. As Portsea Yacht Charters put it "Have you ever wanted to sail the Sorrento - Portsea coast on a luxury forty foot yacht? Or to moor off a quiet Portsea cove for a gourmet lunch and a bottle of chilled sav blanc whilst dolphins play around the yacht? Or visit the historic South Channel Fort, or glide silently by Point Nepean National Park whilst you enjoy a cold glass of Domain Chandon? If so, we would love to have you aboard."
Portsea Beach, Jetty and Activities
The bayside is characterised by calm waters and gently sloping crescent-shaped beaches backed by venerable English trees. The long wooden pier is popular with anglers and bathers. The Sorrento Ferry Co. carries passengers to and from Sorrento andQueenscliff with a stop in-between at Portsea. It also takes time out for some dolphin-watching. The two-hour trip operates daily from 26 December to 23 April and also in the September school holidays. From the beginning of November to Christmas Day it operates on weekends only. The rest of the year it is inoperative. It departs from Sorrento pier and stops at Portsea at 9.15 a.m., 11.15 a.m., 1.15 p.m. and 3.15 p.m. In February only there is a 5.15 p.m. service. For a one-way trip to Queenscliff, the cost is $8 for adults, $7 for pensioners and $6 for children. The return fair is$14 for adults, $12 for pensioners and $11 for children. Return family tickets (two adults and two children) are $45. Tickets are purchased on board the ferry. For daily service information, call (03) 5984 1602 after 8.00 a.m. or call the ferry direct on (0408) 545 714. Special dolphin-watching cruises operate hourly on Easter Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The website is http://www.sorrentoferryco.com.au
Also operating in the area are companies offering fishing trips and boat charter services (see entry onSorrento). Scuba-diving and snorkelling are popular and Dive Victoria provides equipment, training and chartered trips to diving locations, tel: (03) 5984 3155. Mornington Peninsula is also noted for its profusion of golf courses and Portsea is no exception.
Shelley Beach Walk
This walk (2.5 km) starts from the carpark on the cliff (Hemston Ave) and proceeds down to Shelley Beach then up the clifftop track to Franklin Rd. Return via Franklin Rd and the enjoyable track along Point Nepean Rd.
Portsea Back Beach
Back Beach Rd leads to the ocean beach on the southern side of the peninsula. Portsea Back Beach is popular with swimmers and surfers, although the waters can be rough and dangerous (i.e., swim between the flags).
London Bridge and The Farnsworth Track
Just to the west of Portsea Back Beach is a local attraction known as 'London Bridge', a rock arch formed by the action of waves. There are several ways to get there. If you are not inclined to walk, London Bridge Rd heads west off Back Beach Rd to the site. However, if foot power is your choice you can follow the Farnsworth Track (3 km return) along the cliff-tops which are popular with hang-gliders. Start at the Portsea Ocean Beach carpark and return along the beach. En route is the Eastern Lookout which affords excellent views: eastwards to Cape Schanck and a ridge that leads north to Arthur's Seat; westwards to Barwon Heads and the Otway Ranges, and northwards to Mud Island, Swan Island and the Bellarine Peninsula.
The Coastal Walk
Walking tracks (known collectively as the Coastal Walk) lead from London Bridge all the way to Cape Schanck (28 km). The route is denoted by orange markers with blue signs to indicate departure points for circuit tracks to interesting sites. However, east of Rye Beach the landscape tends to be more rugged and the walks are not so well marked. Passage along the walking trail may be blocked at high tide so it is advisable to check tidal patterns before starting.
In all the walk would take most people at least two days to complete but, as there are about 30 access points to the coastal strip (largely from back roads which radiate out from Point Nepean Rd), it is possible to explore any given sub-section.
The journey takes in jagged cliffs, interesting rock formations, tidal rock pools, sand dunes, spectacular views, dense coastal scrub and some well-known, beautiful and rugged beaches such as Blairgowrie, Rye, St Andrews and Gunnamatta. Note, however, that these beaches can be very dangerous. Consequently, swimming and surfing are not encouraged, except at the surf life-saving clubs which operate at Portsea and Gunnamatta in summer. Ocean fishing can be pursued along the coast. If you bring a pair of binoculars you may see, out in Bass Strait, short-tailed shearwaters from September to May and, in winter, giant petrels and albatrosses. Those interested in horseriding within Mornington Peninsula National Park should contact the Dromana Information Centre on (03) 5987 3078.
A comprehensive colour brochure with maps and interesting information, called 'Discovering the Peninsula', is on sale from Parks Victoria (tel: 131 963) or the Parks Visitor Centre at Point Nepean, tel: (03) 5984 4276.
Point Nepean and Quarantine Station
Point Nepean is now part of the Mornington Peninsula National Park. There is a Visitor Centre just west of Portsea, at the end of Point Nepean Rd. Beyond this point no private vehicles are allowed. An entry fee is payable here. If you take the mini-bus out to the end of the point (a distance of 7 km) the cost of entry is $10.20 for adults, $5.60 for children and concessions, and $26 for families. If visitors pay a higher fee they can use the mini-bus all day to move from place to place; in this case the cost is $12 for adults, $7.35 for children and concessions, and $31.50 for families. If you choose to rely on footpower the cost of entry is $6.80 for adults, $3.40 for children and concessions, and $17 for families. Walkers must get under way by 2.00 p.m. Visitors can also bring their own bicycle or hire one at a cost of $12 for three hours. Bicycles are not allowed on interpretive walks, so bring a bike lock (and helmet). If you are intending to use the bus it is advisable to book, tel: (03) 5984 4276.
The main walking track starts at the Visitor Centre and makes its way out to the tip of the Point. Four 1-km interpretive walks branch off the main track: the Walter Pisterman Heritage Walk, the Cheviot Hill Discovery Walk, the Fort Pearce Heritage Walk and the Fort Nepean Walk. Cheviot Hill affords a fine prospect over Point Nepean and Cheviot Beach from where Australian prime minister Harold Holt forever disappeared in 1967. The offshore waters are now known as the Harold Holt Marine Reserve.
The walks also explore the remains of the defensive network (fort, barracks, gun placements and subterranean passages) that was first established at Point Nepean in 1882 to guard the entrance to Port Phillip Bay during a period when there were pervasive fears of a Russian invasion. Local limestone proved ideal for the construction of underground passages and, by the end of the 19th century, the fort was allegedly the most heavily armoured outpost in the Southern Hemisphere.
The fort's two cannons allegedly fired the first shot on Britain's side in both world wars. On August 5, 1914, when Australia received word of Britain's declaration of hostilities, a German freighter happened to be in Port Phillip Bay. A shot was fired across the bow and the crew were then detained as POWs. A volley from these same cannons was again fired at the declaration of war in 1939. However, the target proved to be a Tasmanian freighter which had failed to fly its colours.
There are also guided walks at weekends, public holidays and school holidays to the old 'Sanitary' (i.e., Quarantine) Station at 2.00 p.m. on weekends, tel: (03) 5984 9222. It was established in 1852 when a ship entered Port Phillip carrying passengers stricken with yellow fever. Survivals from this initial period include five two-storey rendered limestone buildings and a single-storey structure of crudely coursed limestone blocks with a massive limestone chimney.
Note that no food is available in the park but there are picnic and barbecue facilities near the Visitor Centre for those who bring their own. Opening hours are 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily. Parks Victoria produce a leaflet called 'Visitor's Guide to Point Nepean' and a colour booklet called 'Guide to Point Nepean's Past'. They are available from Parks Victoria (tel: 131 963) or from the Point Nepean Visitor Centre, tel: (03) 5984 4276. There is interpretive signage and audio commentaries are available regarding the history of the fort and anecdotes of military life at Point Nepean.
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