This was published 6 years ago
Review: Grande Roche Hotel, Paarl, South Africa
By Mark Daffey
Grande Roche Hotel, Paarl Rock, South Africa.
Grande Roche Hotel, Paarl
THE LOCATION
Paarl lies in the fertile Berg River Valley, a 40-minute drive from Cape Town. Flanked by the Drakenstein and Simonsberg ranges, it forms part of the Cape Winelands region that also includes the towns of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. At its epicentre is Paarl Mountain – said to be the world's second largest granite monolith, often drawing comparisons to Uluru.
When Dutch settlers first came here in 1657, they caught their first sight of Paarl Mountain on a rainy day when it glistened like a pearl, or paarl in Dutch. The first grape vines were planted here in the 17th century and today more than 30 wine farms are spread across the district.
It was from Paarl's Victor Verster Correctional Centre that Nelson Mandela walked free in 1990, ending 27 years of imprisonment.
THE PLACE/SPACE
De Nieuwe Plantatie operated as a family-owned wine farm for almost 300 years and only began operations as a five-star luxury hotel in December 1991. Its name was changed then to Grande Roche, or "Big Rock" – a reference to Paarl Mountain. It later joined the Small Luxury Hotels of the World network.
Today it sprawls across 9.7 hectares, 15 of which are under vine – both table and wine grapes, in red and white varietals. Clustered together in the centre are heritage-listed buildings that are preserved as national monuments. Ongoing restorations represent the period 1869-1876, with modern conference facilities, an outdoor amphitheatre and two swimming pools – one adults-only – added.
A total of 36 studio, duplex and terrace suites are housed inside old slave quarters, wine cellars, coach houses and stables. A fitness centre has been set up inside an old shepherd's cottage, complementing floodlit tennis courts. The original mill is now a chapel hosting intimate weddings.
THE ROOM
After a quick orientation tour, I'm handed the keys to the Malabar Suite, one of five duplex suites inside the old slave quarters. Where my suite differs from others in my block is that it is split in two to accommodate the only fireplace in the building. The stairway and entrance are separated from the living area, which contains soft cushioned lounges, a flat-screen TV, tea and coffee-making facilities and a small desk area, all beneath a bamboo slat roof.
Upstairs, a king-sized bed spreads beneath cathedral ceilings with exposed silver tree beams supporting a thatched roof. It's a no-fuss decor that includes a wall-mounted reverse-cycle heater, TV and wardrobe. The en suite bathroom has a sagging pine slat ceiling and a low-hanging doorway that rugby second rowers will have to duck to enter.
THE FOOD
The award-winning, 70-seater Bosman's Restaurant fills the original manor house of the Dutch colonist Hermanus Bosman, who first settled on this property in 1717. The dinner menu offers four starters, four mains and four desserts. All are in French, until the waiter realises his mistake and swaps my menu for an English-language version.
For such a high-end restaurant, everything is pleasingly affordable – think $20 mains and $10 desserts. A thoughtful addition is a selection of reading glasses for those who forget to bring their own.
I order the carpaccio with Chalmar beef followed by a confit free-range duck leg before finishing with a sweet berry compote and white chocolate ice-cream for dessert. All are delicious.
I wash them down with two glasses of a Paarl pinotage that I had trouble choosing. A whopping 365 wines from all parts of the globe are itemised, which the new sommelier is in the process of halving. I'm surprised to tally just seven wines from Paarl. More are being added.
Buffet breakfasts are also served here. Be sure to ask for a table on the terrace, overlooking the vineyards with views towards the Drakenstein Mountains. Other dining choices at the hotel are in Bistro Allegro (simple, but excellent, menu) and in a private dining room for intimate meals at the rear of the manor house.
STEPPING OUT
You could easily whileaway several days admiring Paarl's historic Cape Dutch architecture while visiting the many wineries, restaurants and cafes scattered around this compact city of 160,000 people. Paarl's 12-kilometre-long Main Street is packed with antique stores, art galleries and craft shops. And there are monuments, museums and historical walks.
Wildlife lovers can visit a crocodile farm, a giraffe house, a lion park and a butterfly world, while those seeking active pursuits can tackle some of the hiking, biking or horse riding trails around the area. The steep granite faces of Paarl Mountain attract the country's best rock climbers. And the Berg River in Paarl is the starting point for the four-day Berg River Canoe Marathon. Plus, there are two world-class golf courses.
THE VERDICT
Stunning location, tranquil setting, superb food, great wine and attractive pricing (by Australian standards). A top choice.
ESSENTIALS
Plantasie Street, Paarl, Western Cape, South Africa. Suites start at $250 a night, twin share. Free Wi-Fi is available in all rooms.
Mark Daffey was a guest of the Grande Roche.
HIGHLIGHT
Stepping out of bed to discover under-floor heating.
LOWLIGHT
Providing tea bags only, instead of loose leaf tea – a gripe I have with many luxury hotels.
Our Rating: 5 stars
TripAdvisor Traveller Rating: 4.5 stars
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