This was published 8 years ago
Rhine river cruise on board Uniworld's SS Antoinette.: Amsterdam to Basel
In the rapidly expanding world of European river cruising, Uniworld Boutique River Cruises stands out from the crowd. While most river cruise lines are adding two, three or even 12 identical new ships to their fleets every year, Uniworld sticks to its policy of launching just one highly individual vessel at a time.
The newest Uniworld ship to set sail is SS "super ship" Maria Theresa, which was christened in grand style by a descendant of the famous empress in March. SS Catherine was christened by French actress Catherine Deneuve in 2014, while SS Antoinette, which operates the "Castles of the Rhine" itinerary, was launched in 2011. The company has 11 other river ships that cruise the waterways of Europe and Russia. While each one has a different style of ornate interior decor, they all feature top-quality fittings and furnishings and a high level of service.
Our suite on SS Antoinette's La Princesse Deck, for example, was serviced by not one, but two, butlers – and they are the real deal, having been trained by a tutor from England's Ivor Spencer Butler School. The suite is spacious, lavishly decorated and has its own coffee machine and teas, as well as a regular bar fridge; the marble bathroom has under-floor heating; and the balcony window glides up and down at the touch of a button.
The landmark Basler Muenster seen from the Rhine. Credit: Basil Tourismus
SS Antoinette's Amsterdam-to-Basel cruise was the first of the season and the spring weather was distinctly chilly. Blankets wrapped in hot-water bottles were supplied in the al fresco area of the L'Orangerie restaurant on the top deck, where we spotted a "butler button" – just in case you feel the need to summon extra personal attention.
A walking tour of Cologne's Old Town and famed twin-towered Gothic cathedral was the first of several ship-organised excursions we took, but you don't have to go with the group if you prefer to do your own thing. However, the local experts' commentary is enlightening and it saves trailing around with your eyes glued to a map and missing half the important sights. And would we have found out ourselves that Cologne's beautiful green belt is built on the rubble of houses bombed in World War II, and that below that are layers of archeological remains dating back to Roman times? Probably not.
Another historical fact: along the Rhine between Bonn and Mainz there are more castles than in any other river valley in the world. And the best views of these magnificent hilltop edifices – some in ruins, some converted to hotels – are from the bow of the ship. For a closer encounter, we took a 30-minute bus ride from the medieval town of Koblenz, where the ship was conveniently docked, to Marksburg Castle.
Innenhof Rathaus. Credit: Daniel Petkovic
Marksburg is the only Rhine castle that has survived wars, weather and bombs – intact and inhabited – for more than 700 years. Highlights include the Riders' Stairway, where knights on horseback galloped into the fortress; the banqueting hall and domestic living quarters; the herb gardens; and the lavatory that originally emptied onto them. Instruments of torture give a shivery insight into the horribly creative punishments meted out to thieves and adulterers in the Middle Ages.
The next castle on our itinerary was less forbidding. Castle Vollrads is set among its own picturesque vineyards in the Rheingau region, and the estate dates back to the 14th century. A tasting tour introduced us to some of its famous rieslings, which are sealed with attractive glass stoppers rather than corks in order to avoid "cork taint" and preserve cork forests.
An overnight sailing took us from Rudesheim to Germersheim, where we set off to sample fine wine vinegars at the boutique Weinessiggut Doktorenhof in Venningen. It makes an interesting change from wine- and beer-tasting. There are vinegars for cooking, salads, aperitifs and digestifs, which take years to create from wines produced in the estate's organic vineyards. We sip a selection of the sweet-sour vinegars from long-stemmed glasses that are handmade in Bavaria and are totally sold on the novel tastes. The on-site shop was thronged by eager customers from the ship.
In the evening, we moved on from gourmet vinegars to sipping champagne and cocktails in SS Antoinette's whimsical Leopard Bar as we cruised towards Strasbourg. A talented local singer-songwriter belted out new and old favourites as we bonded with several like-minded fellow passengers from America. Although most river cruisers tend to be at the older end of the babyboomer age group, there were quite a few in their 40s and even two children on this cruise.
Our day in Strasbourg started with a cruise of the canals that criss-cross this geographically, historically and politically important city. The Alsatian capital is known as the "crossroads of Europe" and is home to the European Parliament and the European Commission on Human Rights, among several other influential institutions. It is also incredibly photogenic; the entire city centre on the Grand Ile is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
There was ample time to wander through the streets and squares, enjoy a long lunch outside a tiny cafe (flammekueche, a thin onion, bacon and cream-topped flatbread, is a local specialty) and shop for exquisitely packaged chocolates, but all in our small party wanted to jump ship and stay for a week. That would have meant missing out on the pretty town of Colmar in French Alsace, so it wasn't an option … the old lament of too many wonderful destinations: not enough time.
We disembarked at the Swiss city of Basel, but rather than rushing back to London, my next port of call, I stayed on for a day of eye-opening sightseeing. It is a very walkable city. There are five sign-posted walking routes through the Old Town; they all start at Marktplatz and take you to places of specific interest. The Erasmus walk, for example, focuses on the historical heart of the city; if you want to see both sides, the Hans Holbein walk includes a ferry ride across the Rhine. Four of the five routes are suitable for wheelchairs and strollers, and you can hire audiovisual guides from the two Basel Tourism offices if you want an in-depth commentary as you stroll.
There are more than 40 museums dotted about the city, so when time is limited you need to pick and choose. I was tempted by the Cartoonmuseum but spent a couple of hours in the brilliant Paper Mill museum, heaven for stationery addicts, kids and anyone interested in the history of printing and papermaking.
As befits its position sitting on the borders of three countries – France, Germany and Switzerland – Basel is blessed with hundreds of sophisticated hotels, cafes and restaurants. Every year it holds the three-day Fasnacht carnival; in 2016 it will kick off at precisely 4am on February 15.
London was calling and I had a train to catch: the sleek Lyria TGV (train a grand vitesse, aka high-speed train). It took three hours and four minutes (precisely) to race from Basel's SBB railway station to Gare de Lyon in Paris, from where you take the local RER train or a taxi to Gare du Nord to catch the Eurostar to London.
Although the journey may have taken slightly longer than flying from Basel to Heathrow, it was infinitely more enjoyable. Comfortable, spacious seats with plenty of legroom, decent fresh food in the buffet car (or delivered to your seat in first class), and all those intoxicating views of the French and English countryside flashing by – what's not to love? There are no tedious queues for security and baggage, the 30-minute check-in deadline for the Eurostar is quite manageable, and you're travelling to and from the heart of the cities.
Just like cruising, really – no wonder rail-sail combos are the next big thing.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
uniworldcruises.com.au; raileurope.com.au
GETTING THERE
SS Antoinette cruises from Amsterdam to Basel and vice versa from March to November (2015 and 2016) and four Christmas market cruises in November and December.
STAYING THERE
The eight-day "Castles Along the Rhine" cruise visits Amsterdam, Cologne, Koblenz, Rudesheim, Germersheim, Strasbourg, Breisach and Basel. Fares start from $3759 a person twin share for 2015 sailings.
DINING THERE
SS Antoinette has a main dining room (Restaurant de Versailles) that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner plus the indoor/outdoor L'Orangerie restaurant on the sun deck for late breakfast, light lunch and dinner.
The writer travelled as a guest of Uniworld Boutique Cruises, Emirates and RailEurope.
FIVE MORE THINGS TO DO ONBOARD
SWIM
The glass-enclosed, heated indoor pool at the aft of the ship is bigger than most of the (outdoor) pools on other river ships; fitness classes are held there every morning.
SPA
A selection of pampering treatments is offered at the Serenity River Spa, which is next door to the indoor pool. The 25-minute Thai massage is also available in your stateroom.
MOVIES
Le Cinema Pigalle screens classic and contemporary movies in 3D three times a day. Sink back into comfy seats (only 20, so it's an intimate venue) and snack on popcorn, sweets and savoury hors d'oeuvres.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Attend the weekly lecture about the history of the Rhine from Roman times to the formation of the European Union, and don't miss the comprehensive daily port reviews presented by the cruise manager.
LEARN
Join the first and second captains on a wheelhouse visit to find out how they navigate the waterways and locks, raise and lower the roofs of the Leopard Bar and L'Orangerie, and what it takes to helm a rivership.
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