VILLA LA MASSA, FLORENCE
This yellow mansion on the Arno River just west of Florence is a Tuscan fantasy down to its surrounding lemon and orange groves and manicured gardens dotted with giant cypress trees. The 16th-century villa, so pretty on the outside, has a startling and rather brooding central atrium of old colonnades and shadowy atmosphere. Guestrooms capture Renaissance-era style in their antique furnishings, beamed or painted ceilings, and the occasional four-poster bed, yet without omitting up-to-date comforts. A large swimming pool and luxurious spa supply reason to linger, although central Florence is just a 20-minute drive away. See lhw.com
TABIANO CASTELLO, PARMA
The Queen's Pavilion at Villa d'Este on Lake Como.
What do to when you own a whopping hilltop fortress and its village beneath? Help pay for the upkeep by wedging guestrooms in its old towers and farm buildings, providing simple but atmospheric accommodation – plus some self-catering villas – that supply commanding views of the countryside and across the Po Valley to the Alps. A cheerful restaurant dishes up homemade pasta liberally sprinkled with Parmigiano Reggiano, made nearby. Hands-on octogenarian owner Giacomo Corazza-Martini keeps an eye on things at this friendly, unpretentious retreat 40 kilometres west of Parma, and lets guests tour the apartments in his castle above. See tabianocastello.com
BORGO SAN FELICE, TUSCANY
This isn't an ordinary hotel but an entire medieval village in the Chianti countryside transformed into an alberghi diffuse or "scattered hotel" that sees rooms and suites lodged throughout its collection of lovingly restored buildings. Guestrooms feature rustic luxury, with beamed ceilings, terracotta floors and Tuscan furnishings and fabrics. The village, which dates back to the eighth century, has a Romanesque chapel and old wine cellars and is laden with potted geraniums and petunias. A gorgeous swimming pool, spa and fine-dining restaurant are welcome contemporary additions at this Relais & Chateaux-branded gourmet retreat. See relaischateaux.com
Guestrooms are lodged in the towers and farm buildings at the hilltop fortress Tabiano Castello, near Parma.Credit: Foto Bocelli
VILLA D'ESTE, LAKE COMO
Little wonder this is a Leading Hotel of the World: two fabulous mansions sit among acres of landscaped park on the shores of Lake Como and perfectly capture the summer-palace feel of yesteryear. This is one of Europe's ultimate historic hotels and possibly its most beautiful. Expect grand tradition and classy elegance amid sumptuous flowers in vases, swathes of brocade and spindly-legged chairs. The old-fashioned service is outstanding and yet avoids dull formality. The hotel's main swimming pool juts out into the beautiful lake that is also showcased in views from many guestrooms and restaurant tables. See lhw.com
OPERA 02, MODENA
Those hankering for contemporary designer style in their country retreats should check into this long, concrete bunker lodged on a hillside outside Modena and capturing a superb panorama of rolling farmland draped in ever-changing light. Guestrooms are large and minimalist, with great terraces. There's a wellness centre with sauna and Turkish bath, but more intriguingly the resort is attached to a wine- and vinegar-producing farm. Inspect the barrels of balsamic vinegar and chat to enthusiastic English-speaking owner Mattia Montanari. The restaurant serves Opera 02 wines and local fare such as tortellini in broth and Parma ham-topped nibbles. See opera02.it
L'ALBERETA, LOMBARDY
Halfway between Milan and Verona in the lovely wine-producing region of Franciacorta, luxury retreat L'Albereta sits on a hilly ridge with views towards Lake Iseo and the Alps. The 19th-century country house is shaded by cedar trees, and has an ivy-draped facade, sculpture-dotted gardens and its own vineyard. The main house features antiques and bewigged portraits, but the spa is ultra-modern in clinical white. As with all Relais & Chateaux properties, you can bank on a fine evening meal at Leonefelice restaurant, which serves dishes such as lake eel, rabbit-stuffed cappelletti pasta or lip-smacking pig ribs with mustard potatoes. See relaischateaux.com
The writer travelled courtesy Emilia-Romagna Tourism, Relais & Chateaux, Leading Hotels of the World and DriveAway Holidays.
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