Sunday lunch: Salix

WILLOW CREEK VINEYARD crafts beautiful wines from some of the oldest vines on the Mornington Peninsula. So we don't need much nudging one Sunday when the winter sun shines unexpectedly and we go to inspect the winery's recent facelift.

The long driveway is through hard-pruned chardonnay vines. Floor-to-ceiling glass doors open into the smart new cellar door and extended Salix bistro. The huge deck is ideal for casual summer lunches.

From the 2009 vintage, winemaker Geraldine McFaul is planning just six wines rather than 14, all under the Willow Creek Estate label. While the restaurant and winery are separate businesses, they work together, the wine naturally featuring large but not exclusively on the restaurant's wine list.

The restaurant is up a few steps overlooking more vines, a lake and further vineyards in the distance. More floor-to-ceiling windows maximise the view in the dining room.

I sip a Willow Creek rosé´ ($9 a glass, $40 bottle) as we peruse the small but thoughtful menu.

My husband can't see past the home-made gnocchi ($18 entree, $32 main) with roasted organic Barbarella pumpkin, rainbow chard and gruyere crumble, whereas I can think only of plump seared garlic scallops ($20) with French lentils on a cauliflower puree - both terrific entrees.

For main course I opt for the six-hour slow-braised unctuous ox cheek ($36) - so tender no knife is needed. It calls for a velvety Benedictus ($16 a glass, $80 bottle). My husband chooses the crispy-sided pan-fried wild barramundi ($38) on leek fondue with a little Berkshire pork belly. We then share a souffle-like Belgium chocolate and Ellisfield quince soft-centre pudding with chocolate sorbet ($15) - a perfect finale.

Reviewed by Tricia Welsh

Salix Restaurant, Willow Creek Vineyard, 166 Balnarring Road, Merricks North, 5989 7640. Restaurant: open daily noon-3pm, Fri-Sat 6-11pm; bistro open daily noon-5pm; cellar door daily 10am-5pm. See www.willow-creek.com.au. Melway 162 H9.

To stay: nearby options include Balnarring Village Motor Inn (www.balmotel.com.au); Somers Peninsula Retreat (http://somerspeninsularetreat.vpweb.com.au); Woodman Estate (www.woodmanestate.com).