The Review: Moorabinda Lodge, Yarra Ranges

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This was published 6 years ago

The Review: Moorabinda Lodge, Yarra Ranges

By Paul Chai
A mountain getaway so welcoming it's hard to drag yourself away.

A mountain getaway so welcoming it's hard to drag yourself away.

THE LOCATION

The Yarra Ranges is a collection of villages connected by switchback roads through rod-straight mountain ash trees and fern-fringed valleys. You can find family fun on the Puffing Billy steam trains, killer cuisine from some of Melbourne's top chefs and Victorian gardens frequented by wombats and wedge-tailed eagles. It can be romantic or fun for all ages, you can hit the spa or zipline through the forest. There is a wealth of weekend-away gold in them thar hills. Moorabinda Lodge, just out of the town of Olinda, is flexible too; use it to explore the ranges, or never walk further than your farm gate.

THE PLACE

Perfectly placed to look over the Yarra Valley, the all-about-the-view approach of the Robin Boyd-designed Moorabinda Lodge makes you feel like you are living in an ever-changing landscape painting – soft pastels at sunrise and muted charcoals at dusk. Boyd – an outspoken architect known for his modernist style – designed the three-bedroom property in 1962 for owners the Bankins and it is a prime example of his attempts to provide a strong rapport between the built and natural environments. There are the soaring windows, the glass-cubed bathrooms and an expansive wooden deck. This home is in thrall to its valley view, it dominates the bedrooms, the kitchen and the dining room; the mood of the building changes with the weather. At night the twinkling lights in the valley look like a giant bowl full of stars.

THE ROOMS

Our bedroom in the southerly wing is awash in neutral colours and soft furnishings with a deep bay window, and bathroom with shower views across the farmland (and a modesty screen lest you have visitors). At the rear of the house is a kids' bedroom that sleeps four and includes a rooftop cubby, drawing desk and ornate tree trunks strung with felt bunting. Boyd's creation is beautifully simple with a huge living space, kitchen with an Aga at its centre and nooks to read and watch television.

THE FOOD

The lodge has the same owners as neighbouring Coonara Springs restaurant and chef Adrian Upward has filled the fridge with several types of house-smoked bacon, house-made sausages, preserves and smoked salmon. The restaurant itself is a five-minute amble down your driveway to a Victorian-era cottage. Dishes on chef Adrian's menu might include a chicken liver parfait with sourdough toast, harpuka with saffron and spiced yoghurt and a chocolate mousse with salted caramel crack ice cream.

STEPPING OUT

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You could very easily make this weekend all about food. Grab lunch at The Independent in Gembrook (79 Main St, Gembrook; theindependentgembrook.com.au) a former service station now pumping out modern-Argentinian from chef Mauro Callegari. Try the deliciously rich chorizo with sweet prune puree and salsa, or the spiced crisp chicken with smoked eggplants and palm hearts. And there is a whole section of the menu dedicated to the famous Gembrook potato, try the potato chips and paprika topped with grated pecorino cheese. Brunch is at Shannon Bennett's (Vue du Monde) casual Piggery Cafe (1 Sherbrooke Rd, Sherbrooke; burnhambeeches.com.au), set in a one-time pig farm dominated by towering silos hugged into submission by climbing vines. Dine outside overlooking the bocce court with a build-it-yourself breakfast quesadilla you can fill with sweet-and-spicy pulled pork, black beans, avocado and eggs coddled so perfectly they don't explode when you pack your tortilla. The attached Burnham Bakery sends artisan loaves to Melbourne's top restaurants – do not leave without a brioche that is so light you almost need to tie it down.

THE VERDICT

This is the perfect mountain getaway with a house so dramatic, so welcoming that it takes a lot to drag you away from your abode. Luckily the nearby attractions are worth rousing yourself for, but make sure you spend a decent amount of time taking in the valley view.

ESSENTIALS

Moorabinda Lodge can sleep eight and costs start at two guests for $360 a night and four guests $460 a night. Book through Valley Ranges Getaways (valleyrangesgetaways.com.au) and pick up keys at the offices at 7 Monash Aveneu, Olinda.

HIGHLIGHT

Sunrise, when the morning light bounces off every window, and makes the misty valley look like a work of art.

LOWLIGHT

Sunrise, when you try to go back to sleep and realise the blinds in the bedroom are not really up to the task.

OUR RATING 5 out of 5

TRIPADVISOR TRAVELLER RATING 5 out of 5

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