This was published 6 years ago
'The Haven': Your exclusive private enclave on board Norwegian Epic
A private courtyard on Norwegian Jewel.Credit: Michel Verdure
Norwegian Epic towers above every other ship docked at Marseille's sprawling cruise terminal. Which isn't surprising, as it is one of the 10 biggest cruise ships in the world – it carries more than 4000 passengers and 1724 crew, and hosts a dazzling array of restaurants, entertainment venues and non-stop activities.
I join Epic's seven-night Mediterranean cruise at France's once notoriously seedy – now fashionably reformed – port city, one of five ports of call on the regular itinerary the ship sails every week between Barcelona and Rome during the northern hemisphere summer. The captain jokingly refers to it as like "driving a bus" but clearly it takes considerable expertise to manoeuvre a vessel of these proportions in and out of Barcelona, Naples, Civitavecchia and Cannes.
The ship is so huge that I take a map and a guided tour from reception when I board. It would take much longer than seven nights to fully explore the aptly named Epic from stem to stern but you can have lots of fun trying. Starting at the top, you'll find the "ship within a ship" – otherwise known as The Haven – a private enclave that's located on sections of decks 16, 17, 18 and 19. It includes top-end suites and villas whose guests have exclusive access to their own restaurant, bar, pool, sundeck and gym.
Norwegian Jewel is heading to Australia for the summer.Credit: Michele Verdure
The ship within a ship is an intriguing concept and one that's being adopted by several mainstream cruise lines. MSC Cruises has the Yacht Club on its five newest ships, while Royal Caribbean has introduced Suite Class on board its Oasis and Quantum-class ships. Celebrity Cruises also has Suite Class services and facilities for its top-tier suite passengers. Cunard has been doing it for years, offering its Queens and Princess Grill class sections for passengers who choose to pay higher fares for access to select restaurants, lounges and butler service.
Although I'm not staying in The Haven, I am given access to its facilities during my cruise, and I'm an instant convert. The breakfast, lunch and dinner I sample in the restaurant are top quality and the service is totally five-star. Norwegian Jewel, which is coming to Australia in November for the summer, accommodates up to 180 passengers in The Haven; Jewel also has three-bedroom family villas, which can sleep up to eight people.
When you consider the inclusions (unlimited drinks, dining at specialty restaurants, free shore tours and reduced rates for third and fourth passengers in a group) it is a popular option for cashed-up extended families who are looking to enjoy all the fun facilities of a big, contemporary ship, while being able to escape to a – well, Haven, when it all gets too loud and busy.
By the time we dock at Naples I'm a fair way through my journey around the ship. Ten-pin bowling at O'Sheehans bar – tick! Cirque Dreams dinner show in the Spiegel Tent – extra big tick! Family friendly waterslides, rock-climbing walls and adults-only Spice H20 zone – yes, I've checked them out and they are all extremely well patronised.
Monica, the cruise director and a native of Naples, suggests my cruise buddy and I go to Di Matteo for a classic margherita pizza – they were invented in her city back in 1889. We get sidetracked during our shopping expedition on Via Toledo by the most delicious insalata caprese, a fresh buffalo mozzarella and basil salad, in a very ordinary cafe. I now realise that our supermarket versions of this delectable cheese are a poor shadow of the real thing.
Naples is a fascinating place to explore – one moment you come across a stunning ancient piazza surrounded by monumental buildings, the next, you're wandering through a winding backstreet that's threadbare and graffitied. It is also the gateway for day trips to Pompeii and Herculaneum, the island of Capri and the picturesque, much-visited, Amalfi coast.
Back on the ship, I continue my research into the eateries that are also found onboard Norwegian Jewel. Complimentary restaurants include the Garden Cafe buffet (a great choice of serve-yourself and cooked-to-order dishes; there are always lots of customers but no queues); two main dining rooms (Tsar's Palace on Jewel has a Chocoholic night once every cruise); O'Sheehan's (open 24/7); an Asian-fusion restaurant (popular with families); and an outdoor buffet (The Great Outdoors on Jewel).
Specialty extra-fee venues include Cagneys (my favourite – they do a perfect fillet steak); Le Bistro (good French fare); La Cucina (classic Tuscan dishes); and Modern Churrascaria (a must for dedicated carnivores). When Jewel cruises Down Under, regional produce such as beef, lamb, seafood, wines and craft beers will be served on board.
NCL is also serious about its entertainment. In the evenings, you'll find live music in different bars, comedy and magic shows, karaoke rooms and dance-party events. Burn the Floor is a spectacular song and dance show, performed in the main theatre and the Manhattan dining room on Epic; it will be a big drawcard onboard Jewel. The show is the brainchild of high-profile Australian producer Harley Medcalf; it's a super-high-energy combo of story-telling, eclectic dance styles, electric music and sexy costumes.
Most people disembark at Civitavecchia and head straight for Rome, which is about an hour away by bus or train. However, if you're looking for an alternative to hectic sightseeing you can happily while away a day in or around Civitavecchia. Its name means "ancient town" and it has been a port since about 100AD. Nearby Tarquinia is famous for its Etruscan tombs; Le Terme Taurine (also known as the Taurine Baths) is another significant archeological site; and you can take a therapeutic dip in the equally historic Ficoncella hot springs.
Civitavecchia itself has plenty in the way of historic attractions – the 16th-century Forte Michelangelo dominates the seafront – as well as a traditional marketplace, and shops and restaurants that cater more for locals than tourists. My cruise buddy and I take an early train to Rome, where we join a city cycling tour with Viator, then spend a couple of very pleasant late-afternoon hours at a peaceful beachfront café-bar back in Civitavecchia.
The massive industrial port of Livorno is the hub for day trips to Florence, Pisa, Lucca and the five historic villages of Cinque Terre. You can hop on a shuttle bus to explore the old Porto Mediceo area from Piazza Grande but most cruise passengers depart for the better-known spots. We take a private tour of Tuscany with a Lucca-based wine expert, Massimo Cenci; between sampling sessions at two boutique vineyards we enjoy a wonderful long lunch in the beautiful little town of Fauglia.
When Norwegian Jewel cruises in our own backyard this summer, it will be a welcome addition to the fleet of visiting and home-based ships – it's going to be another bumper year.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Emirates operates three flights daily from Sydney and Melbourne to Dubai, with two daily connecting flights from Dubai to Paris, where you can take an Air France flight to Marseille. Phone 1300 303 77, see emirates.com/au/english/
CRUISING THERE
Norwegian Epic cruises between Rome (Civitavecchia) and Barcelona from April to October. Fares for the seven-day round trip from Rome start from $969 (October 29, 2017 departure). Norwegian Jewel arrives in Sydney on November 12, 2017, where it will be based until March 2018. Fares start from $1221 for a nine-day Sydney round-trip visiting Eden, Burnie, Melbourne, Kangaroo Island and Adelaide. Phone 1300 255 200, see ncl.com.au.
Sally Macmillan travelled on Norwegian Epic as a guest of Norwegian Cruise Line
5 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE
BIG NUMBERS
NCL has 15 ships in its fleet, ranging in age and size from the 2018-passenger Norwegian Spirit built in 1998 to the 3850-passenger Norwegian Joy, making its debut in June for the Chinese market. The 4000-passenger Norwegian Bliss launches in 2018.
WHERE NCL SHIPS SAIL
Alaska, the Bahamas, Bermuda, the Baltic Sea, Caribbean, Canada and New England, East and West Mediterranean, Mexican Riviera, Central America (including the Panama Canal), South America and transatlantic. Norwegian Jewel will sail around Australia and to the Pacific Islands and New Zealand between November 2017 and March 2018.
HAWAII YEAR ROUND
NCL is the only mainstream cruise line that has a ship cruising year-round in the Hawaiian islands. The 2186-passenger Pride of America departs Honolulu every Saturday and visits four islands in seven days, with overnight stays on Maui and Kaua'i.
TOP TOYS
The newest, biggest ships, Norwegian Escape and Getaway, have multi-level ropes courses, "walk the plank" experiences, ziplines and rock-climbing walls, as well as pools, slides and aqua parks. Norwegian Joy's top deck will feature an electric go-cart track and open-air laser tag course.
BEST FOR …
Extended families who like lots of activities day and night, live music, dancing, a wide choice of eateries and bars and a casual dress code.
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