The Trip: Murray River walk

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The Trip: Murray River walk

By Sally Spurr
Skirting the banks on the Murray River walk.

Skirting the banks on the Murray River walk.Credit: Italo Vardaro

NAME: Sally Spurr, Lane Cove, NSW

THE TRIP: Murray River Walk

THE ITINERARY: The walk, part of the Great Walks of Australia signature experiences, is a four-day hike along the Murray River overnighting on a houseboat. With our experienced guides, Heather, Vicki and Mick, and our complimentary day packs of snacks, lunch, water and a thermos we embark at Renmark, South Australia and cruise along the Murray enjoying a multitude of bird-watching spectacles: whistling kites with their young safely ensconced in nests in the towering red gums, squadrons of pelicans wheeling and swooping as they come into watery landings along the reaches and black swans sheltering their tiny, grey cygnets among reeds. As the integral part of the Riverland Ramsar Wetland area, the river appears thriving yet we all learn quickly of the challenges faced from introduced species and the diverse interests of different groups that rely on this water source.

Our first day's hike covers 14 kilometres to Headings Cliffs along creeks and oxbows among spectacular stands of red gum and black box. Scrub of lignum and wildflowers dot the tracks. The cliffs, cast upon this land over millennia from ancient seas, lake and wind, are a brilliant red striated with cream and orange. Our accommodation, a comfortable five double-berth houseboat, is replete with a hot spa – very welcome after my husband and I brave a jump in the frigid river. A three-course, gourmet meal is amazingly produced each night from the little kitchen by the skilled guides and includes local produce and wines.

The next days' hikes of between 10 and 14 kilometres include a cliff walk to witness the vivid sunrise, sightings of Aboriginal canoe trees and middens, and the Amazon and Chowilla creeks. Some hilarious creek crossings along logs, in canoes and across a rickety sheep bridge are a delight. On day four we descend via Lock 6 to the lower river and visit the historic Wilkadene homestead and Woolshed Brewery.

BEST BITS: Spring birdlife

BEST TIPS: Stay at the historic Renmark Hotel before and after the trip

WORST BITS: Seeing the damage that the introduced carp have visited upon this wonderful waterway.

NEXT TRIP: Malaysia

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