Cutty Sark on the Greenwich waterfront.Credit: Brian Johnston
WHY
Down the Thames River, 12 kilometres from central London, Greenwich looms large in history thanks to its central role in promoting Britain's naval power through technical innovation. Even better, this fascinating story is highlighted in a superb collection of buildings designed by leading architects, dotted around parkland with some of London's best views. For those who think they've done London, Greenwich provides a more focused look at one of its most interesting corners.
VISIT
Stroll through Greenwich Park (royalparks.org.uk) for its rose gardens, fallow deer and hilltop views over Greenwich's wonderful architectural ensemble, which contrasts with the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf across the river. The Royal Observatory (rmg.co.uk) sits on the prime meridian and explains how the search for longitude and accurate timekeeping turned Britain into a maritime superpower. Adjacent high-tech Peter Harrison Planetarium has good shows, some with entertaining live narration by astronomers, as well as hands-on, child-friendly exhibitions.
EAT
Cutty Sark Pub (cuttysarkse10.co.uk) sits in a Georgian-era building with windows that look onto the Thames; pub grub such as fish pie, lamb rump and gooseberry crumble is a cut above the norm. For a treat, Champagne + Fromage (champagneplusfromage.co.uk) does good cheese and charcuterie platters and French regional specialties, plus champagne-tasting flights. Quaff some craft beer or cider at The Old Brewery (oldbrewerygreenwich.com) at the Old Royal Naval College, which also serves food.
LOOK
The Old Royal Naval Hospital (ornc.org) is a former home for veteran sailors. Its fabulous Painted Hall is undergoing renovations, enabling visitors to clamber the scaffolding for a close-up look at ceiling frescoes depicting British naval might. The two Christopher Wren-designed buildings frame the petite Queen's House (rmg.co.uk), an Inigo Jones innovation in the classical style, housing an art collection that includes early representations of Australian wildlife commissioned by Joseph Banks.
MUST
The National Maritime Museum (rmg.co.uk) does a fine job of celebrating 500 years of British naval domination and doesn't whitewash its negatives, such as the Chinese opium and African slave trades. Its Battle of Trafalgar gallery has quirky items such as Lord Nelson's bullet-punctured coat. On the Thames Waterfront, restored 19th-century tea clipper Cutty Sark is impressively presented; you can clamber around its deck as you learn about seafaring and the tea trade.
SLEEP
Greenwich is connected to central London by light rail and offers a cheaper alternative to city-centre hotels. De Vere Devonport House (phcompany.com) has a handsome facade and was once part of Royal Naval College but rooms, though comfortable, are bland and modern. DoubleTree by Hilton London Greenwich (doubletree3.hilton.com) is a good alternative inside a landmark 1940s police station and has great views from its top-floor deck. Novotel London Greenwich (novotel.com) is another worthy mainstream option.
TIP
Many museums in Greenwich – as in London generally – have free entry and run regular free events such as concerts, highlight tours and talks that focus on particular galleries. Keep an eye on websites for what's happening.
Brian Johnston travelled courtesy of Viking Cruises and Visit Britain
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