The best place to stay in Bali for relaxing

AT THE END OF AN ORANGUTAN ODYSSEY TRIP IN BORNEO IN MAY MY SISTER AND I PLAN A FEW DAYS IN BALI. CAN YOU SUGGEST RELAXING ACCOMMODATION, SOMEWHERE NOT TOO BUSY WITH A NICE BEACH OR POOL AND GOOD SHOPPING, EATING, PAMPERING AND SIGHTSEEING WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE? L. FREELAND, NORTHWOOD NSW

The hotels along Sanur Beach are a quieter alternative to the Seminyak/Legian area, and the Sanur is far more civilised than Kuta. While it might lack the bars, nightlife and shopping of these other regions, you can swim safely off the white-sand beach at Sanur and the touts who plague other beach regions of southern Bali are banned. Access to the airport is reasonable, about a 30-minute drive, a consideration in Bali's ever-busier traffic. The shady beachfront track at the back of the beach is ideal for a stroll, jog or pedal, winding past cafes and restaurants, yoga pavilions, resorts and fishing canoes with painted eyes. Rise with the sun to see the fishermen sailing home across a sea of spun gold. If you're looking for something at the top end, the Fairmont Sanur Beach fairmont.com/sanur-bali/ is a standout, with a great pool, private beachfront cabanas and a lovely spa. Understated luxury is key here and the hotel covers all the food bases, although there are plenty of alternatives within easy strolling distance. The base level Fairmont Suites are 90 square metres, which is about twice the size of even a spacious resort room. Early Bird rates for May start at about $260 a night, and that's outstanding value.