Airport review: Kuching International Airport, KCH, Borneo, Malaysia

When Malaya, Sarawak, Sabah and Singapore opted to create the state of Malaysia in 1963, Sarawak set a few conditions. One was that it retain autonomy over its immigration. So even though I'm flying within the country – from Kuching to the capital, Kuala Lumpur – I still have to clear immigration which includes scanning both index fingers. The process, however, is incredibly laid back (no, don't bother scanning your handbag), and the smiling staff are delightful.

CHECK IN

I've already checked in online, so it's a quick bag drop and negotiation for a non-middle row seat.

FOOD AND DRINK

Sarawak's signature kek lapis is a plain butter cake, dyed in all the colours of the rainbow and assembled in slender layers to create little works of art, with flavours including pandan and palm sugar. If you didn't try it at the food stands on Kuching's waterfront, you're in luck. Coffee Bean Tea Leaf turns out alarmingly expensive tea at five times the street price, while a cup of tea tarek and kaya toast in the food hall costs MYR12.90 ($4.30). All the Malaysian staples, including chicken rice and laksa are also served in the personality-free dining area.

RETAIL THERAPY

If it hadn't been mentioned a thousand times during your stay, Kuching means "cat" in Malay. A cat kitsch shop sells feline-embellished hats and sculptures to remind you of your visit, as well as some nice, non-catified leather bags. Keep an eye out for the shop at the entrance selling Sarawak's justifiably famous pepper – make sure it has the botanical name written on the label to avoid confiscation in Australia. A Plaza Premium lounge accepts walk-ins at MYR72 a person.

PASSING TIME

Given most of Sarawak's tourism is based around nature – orang utans, sun bears and Borneo's jungles – it's heartening to see a World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) stand in the entrance hall, alerting people to the perilous nature of its ecosystems and biodiversity. Backtracking to my arrival a week earlier, the tourism stand in the arrivals hall is run by the most friendly crew I've encountered, who hand me maps, tips and even offer to take a photo of my arrival in Sarawak. Charging stations abound – essential when so many of us are using non-paper itineraries. And a special mention of the bathrooms: water-spattered and reeking, there's no toilet paper and the ladies of Sarawak appear to have no aim. If there's one thing airport authorities should get right …

THE VERDICT

There's not a lot to keep you occupied here, and the food is far superior outside. Don't leave it until the last minute to do everything at the airport; eat and shop before you arrive. Like all Malaysia's major airports, Kuching's shopping offerings are being upgraded. Hopefully they don't forget the bathrooms.

OUR SCORE OUT OF FIVE

★★½

Belinda Jackson was a guest of Tourism Malaysia.