By Steve McKenna
Bratislava Castle is a 1950s reconstruction, mimicking an earlier renaissance design.
THE ONE CASTLE
From ghostly ruins to opulent chateaux, castles scatter Slovakia, a mostly mountainous, much-invaded slice of central Europe celebrating its 30th year as an independent nation in 2023. In the capital, a fortress has capped a rocky plateau above the River Danube for over a millennium, but the one you see today, Bratislava Castle, whitewashed with four stocky, red-roofed towers, is a 1950s reconstruction, mimicking an earlier renaissance design. Artefacts from the Slovak National Gallery grace the castle, while baroque-style gardens and panoramic terraces afford wide-ranging views of Bratislava, a popular port of call on Danube cruises. In clear weather, it's also possible to peek across the border into Hungary and Austria. The latter's capital, Vienna, is just an hour away by road or rail. See visitbratislava.com
THE ONE NEIGHBOURHOOD
Bratislava's Stare Mesto (Old Town) spreads out in the castle's shadow, separated by a freeway that skims the former city walls. Threaded with cobbled lanes, pretty pastel buildings and enticing spots for food, drink, opera and shopping (with prices kinder than Vienna's), this compact, pedestrian-friendly quarter flourished during the 18th-century reign of Queen Maria Theresa, when Bratislava, then known as Pressburg, was a key domain of the Habsburg Empire. Royal coronations took place at the gothic, green-spired St Martin's Cathedral, one of the sites covered on Bratislava walking tours (which some cruise companies, like Viking, include in their fares). See vikingcruises.com.au
THE ONE BRIDGE
Illuminated at night, the imposing Novy Most (New Bridge) might be the quirkiest structure spanning the entire, 2850-kilometre-long Danube. Dubbed the "UFO Bridge", it opened in 1972, when Bratislava was part of Czechoslovakia, a country founded after World War I following the Habsburg Empire's collapse. Connecting the Old Town with Petrzalka, a district dominated by Communist-era housing blocks, the bridge has an observation deck and an upscale bar-restaurant in its flying saucer-like tower-pod. A Skywalk attraction sees adrenaline seekers dangling from the windowsills, secured by steel ropes, 85 metres above the ground. See u-f-o.sk
THE ONE CAFE
Like many European counterparts, Bratislava had a thriving, smoky 19th-century coffeehouse culture only to see it dwindle during Communism, with the Soviet-led authorities not so enamoured by these potential hotbeds of revolt. The Old Town's revived traditional cafes and cool newbies offer caffeine hits, liplickingly-tempting cakes and pavement seating. Tucked down a side street, Black Coffee is a bright modern space serving good flat whites and cortados. Perch yourself by the window and watch the Bratislavans breeze by, or sit in the lounge, where co-workers chat and tap away. See blackcoffee.sk
THE ONE GALLERY
Bratislava is sprinkled with unusual sculptures and installations, with snappers drawn to Cumil (the Watcher), a bronze figure peeping out of a manhole. You'll also find galleries showcasing local and international art. Facing the riverside embankment, the Slovak National Gallery recently unveiled a long-awaited overhaul, with a new bookstore and cafe, and a boundary-pushing exhibition for 2023, Project: 12 Colours of Reality, starring pieces from the Middle Ages to the present day. See sng.sk
THE ONE SEASON
While Christmas markets and ice-skating rinks bring a toasty charm to wintry Bratislava, the city is cheeriest during the agreeably warmer summer months (June to mid-September). Beach bars, yoga classes and volleyball courts buzz on the Danube's banks and crowd-pulling cultural events fill streets, squares and courtyards. Enjoy everything from open-air theatre and folk and reggae concerts to craft workshops and ceremonial processions reenacting the coronations of Maria Theresa and other kings and consorts. See uprising.sk/en
THE ONE RESTAURANT
Hearty imperial-era dishes are given a spicy twist at Zylinder, a retro restaurant flanking the attractive, tree-lined Hviezdoslav Square. Try the likes of dumplings, duck, goulash, schnitzel or even tafelspitz, said to have been a favourite of Habsburg emperor Franz Joseph. Veal or beef is boiled in a copper pot with root vegetables, apple radish and spinach. Pair your meal with a glass or two of riesling, veltliner or pinot noir. Slovakia has been producing unsung wine since the ancient Romans planted vines here. See zylinder.sk
THE ONE PUB
Like neighbouring Czechia, Slovakia has a proud brewing culture, and Bratislava is spoiled with establishments serving half-litres of superb pivo (beer) for about $3.50 (or less). Hit the labyrinthine Slovak Pub, divided into 11 rustic rooms, all inspired by national legends like saints, knights, writers and poets. Sup away in the Shepherd's Hut, a near 200-year-old wooden cottage relocated here from rural Slovakia. The pub's comprehensive food menu includes home-made bread and sheep's cheese from its own bio farm. See slovakpub.sk
THE ONE HOTEL
For overnight stays, Bratislava has a decent choice of corporate and boutique boltholes. In the shiny Eurovea riverside district, an easy walk or tram ride from the Old Town, the Sheraton has 201 rooms, a French brasserie and spa (there's a €15 surcharge) with heated swimming pool, Finnish sauna and steam room. There's a glossy mall on the hotel's doorstep, plus the Slovak National Theatre's new venue, and the Sky Park, where Zaha Hadid Architects designed a cluster of futuristic apartment-towers. Rooms from around €155 ($250). See marriot.com
ONE MORE THING…
Slovakians were far from happy when their homeland was depicted as a dangerous, grotty backwater - and backpackers' nightmare - in Hostel, a 2005 horror-thriller actually shot in Czechia (then the Czech Republic). The film's director, Eli Roth, was reportedly invited on an all-expenses paid trip so he could see the "real Slovakia". Had he taken up the offer, he'd have discovered a country blessed with forested, hiker-worthy national parks, surreal karst caves, the ski-friendly High Tatra mountains and UNESCO-rated relics like Spis Castle. It's generally pretty safe, too. See slovakia.travel
Steve McKenna was a guest of Viking Cruises.
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.