This was published 1 year ago
Edinburgh, Scotland, travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights
Edinburgh is so much more than its famous castle.Credit: Alamy Stock Photo
THE ONE STAY
Edinburgh has a better selection of hotels than anywhere else in Scotland – only London has a wider choice in the UK. That fierce competition has driven standards higher than ever, and sitting at the top of the tree is the Kimpton Charlotte Square. Centrally located, it's a combination of seven Georgian townhouses reimagined as a modern luxury hotel. In Baba it has one of the best restaurants in the city, while its spa is also outstanding. If you're able to drag yourself outside, Stockbridge and Princes Street are just a few minutes' walk away, too. See kimptoncharlottesquare.com
THE ONE COMEDY VENUE
August sees Edinburgh transformed for its eponymous festival, the biggest arts and culture event in the world. There are several elements to it, but these days people often think first (and sometimes only) of the Fringe. A vast gathering of comedians from around the world, it requires pubs, clubs, and concert halls around the city to be turned into pop-up comedy venues. However, if you're looking for a purer experience, head to the Stand, a tiny venue with a big reputation. Entire careers have been born here. Some have ended, too. See thestand.co.uk
THE ONE RESTAURANT
It feels like The Kitchin has been on the brink of a second Michelin star for years, so excellent has Tom Kitchin's excellent cuisine been for the last decade. Accusations of workplace bullying probably haven't helped any momentum, but the local chef has redoubled efforts not just to improve the environment inside his restaurant, but also stretch the standards of his cooking yet further. Using exclusively Scottish ingredients and cooking largely with French techniques, the nature-to-plate concept here is so popular advance bookings will always be required, for lunch or dinner. See thekitchin.com
THE ONE WINE BAR
Thanks partly to its affluence and international influences, Edinburgh has a vibrant wine scene, far exceeding offerings anywhere in larger Glasgow in the west of Scotland. The moneyed Stockbridge neighbourhood is particularly well served with companies like Good Brothers which grew massively over pandemic lockdowns. However, the slight nod perhaps goes to Smith & Gertrude instead, a cheese and wine emporium where the selection of both is broad and deep. Sitting just above the Water of Leith, it's refined without being stuffy and expensive without being completely unaffordable. See mithandgertrude.com
THE ONE WALKING TOUR
Walking tours have long been popular in Edinburgh and have become even more so since the addition of the Harry Potter version, but for something with a bit more weight, consider the Black History Tour. Scotland's role in slavery and the worst elements of the British Empire is often glossed over (especially by locals) but this new tour explains just how much of this UNESCO World Heritage City was built on the backs of oppressed people around the globe. Illuminating and thought-provoking, it's far more in-depth than many of its nominal rivals. See caribscot.org
THE ONE MUSEUM
The National Museum of Scotland and the psychedelic Camera Obscura are both fine Edinburgh institutions, but for a dip into the capital's pioneering medical work, head to the excellent and often eerie Surgeon's Hall. As well as barbaric surgical instruments and fascinating discoveries, it covers the awful story of the Burke and Hare, 19th-century graverobbers-turned-murderers who provided cadavers to unscrupulous surgeons looking to conduct posthumous experiments. The museum even has a book said to be bound in the skin of William Burke after the hangman had finished with him. See museum.rcsed.ac.uk
THE ONE GIG VENUE
Edinburgh's music scene might not be quite as vibrant as its rival sister city Glasgow's, but it nonetheless frequently appears on the rota for big acts touring the UK. From globally famous pop artists to opera performances during the Edinburgh Festival, the Usher Hall sets the standard for acoustics in the Scottish capital. Built in 1914, it's the home of the Royal Scottish National Orchestra, but is also a former home of Eurovision – an impossibility today as its capacity is only a little over 2000. See usherhall.co.uk
THE ONE BEACH
Few people think of Edinburgh as a seaside city – Leith Harbour has been both famous and notorious over the years, but it's never been a place for sandy beaches and ice-cream. For that, instead head to Portabello. Once a town in its own right, Portabello has long since been swallowed up by the wider city yet it retains a good sense of its own identity, thanks largely to its three-kilometre golden beach. Fish and chips are a serious business around these parts and while cases can – and will – be made for different restaurants, St Andrews is a long-running favourite. See standrewsfishandchips.com
THE ONE PUB
The range of pubs in Edinburgh is dazzling – from 14th-century inns to hipster-reborn bars to supposedly haunted boozers, the choice can feel endless. There are a series of pub crawls, too, but if you're looking for an ideal mix of cool and organic, head down to Leith and the excellently named Dreadnought. The wider neighbourhood may be renowned as a gritty place, but it's fast improving (read: gentrifying) thanks to places like this. A serial Pub of the Year winner, it has an excellent selection of ales, many of which have been brewed locally. See dreadnoughtpub.com
ONE MORE THING
For plenty of tourists, the walk up the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle will be more than enough exercise during their visit, but if the weather is fair and you're looking to burn a few more calories, head to Holyrood Park, just behind the Scottish Parliament. This remarkable city park has a series of trails for hiking, running, or cycling, with the most popular goal being to summit Arthur's Seat. It may only be 251-metres high, but it offers sensational views of Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth, and even the Kingdom of Fife beyond. See historicenvironment.scot
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