Follow the elephant-proof fence

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This was published 1 year ago

Follow the elephant-proof fence

By Julie Miller

We’re riding through a primordial forest, shafts of sunlight creating dappled mosaics as our horses step carefully over protruding roots of gnarled, centuries-old hardwood trees draped with moss and “old man’s beard”. I feel like I’ve entered a Lord of the Rings film set, ponderous with silent mystique. But a sudden rustle above shatters the illusion – it’s a pair of fluffy black-and-white colobus monkeys leaping through the canopy, a reminder that this is, indeed, Africa - albeit a far cry from the grassy plains of The Lion King fame.

I’m on a day ride with Riding High Kenya, exploring the foothills of Mount Kenya, at 5119 metres the second highest peak in Africa after Kilimanjaro. Bordering the rolling pastures of Marania Farm – the base for Riding High’s stable of spotted Appaloosas – is Mount Kenya Forest Reserve, a protected buffer zone that rings the World Heritage-listed cloud forests, peaks and glaciers of Mount Kenya National Park, creating the largest continuous block of closed canopy forest in Kenya.

Heading out ... a different type of Kenyan safari.

Heading out ... a different type of Kenyan safari.

As we ride, our guide warns us of game we may well encounter in this ethereal woodland: antelope such as bushbuck, waterbuck and reedbuck, zebra, Cape buffalo, baboons, hyena and even elephant, with the Forest Reserve containing a vital elephant corridor. It seems incomprehensible that the iconic wildlife of Africa thrives in such high altitudes, but Mount Kenya is actually an important reservoir of biodiversity, with a rich abundance of fauna as well as about 1000 plant species.

This atypical African landscape straddling the Equator even caught Riding High’s co-owner Dani Murray off-guard when she first moved from England to Marania, the third-generation family farm of then boyfriend (and now husband) Jamie, in 2004.

“I was expecting the savannah of Out of Africa, and instead it looked like Shropshire – except with elephants and buffalo,” she said of the farm, established in 1914 as a post-war land grant and now one of Kenya’s most prominent producers of mixed crops as well as cattle and sheep.

And it wasn’t until after she and polo-playing buddy Nicola Jensen visited Patagonia on a riding holiday that they realised the rugged peaks and majestic wilderness they had so admired in Argentina were, in fact, a reality on their own doorstep.

“We started to explore Mount Kenya on our own horses, and were constantly awestruck by the beauty of the landscapes we saw. Over time, our adventures on the mountain turned into a desire to share the experience with like-minded people, and so Riding High was born.”

Seeing spots

Appaloosas are perfectly suited to the safari life.

Appaloosas are perfectly suited to the safari life.Credit: Jack Godwin

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My riding adventure starts with an introductory afternoon potter around the farm; and it’s here that the steadfastness and common sense of Riding High’s Appaloosas – an American breed beloved by the Nez Perce people, and known for its loud spotted coat - is put to the test. Chased by a rambunctious spaniel, a reedbuck explodes from a stand of eucalypts – but my horse Spectre merely flinches at the intrusion, standing his ground.

“Appaloosas are just so sensible and smart,” Dani says. “And they are also surefooted, they really consider every step which is so important when we reach higher altitudes.”

My home during my two-night visit is cosy Marania Guest Cottage, a straw-bale duplex that captures views across the farmland. In one building there’s an open-plan lounge, kitchen and dining area, with a loft bedroom upstairs; while across a courtyard, there’s accommodation for another four people, queen bed downstairs and two twins in a loft.

But before retiring for the night, I’m cooked a delicious “farm to fork” meal by personal chef Billy, using produce straight from the farm; while in the morning, there is freshly baked bread, farm-fresh milk, butter, honey and yoghurt, and a fresh fruit salad to start the day in healthy style.

Comfortable lodgings after a day in the saddle.

Comfortable lodgings after a day in the saddle.Credit: Jack Godwin

Beyond the boundary

Back in the saddle, we’re delving deeper into the Forest Reserve, beyond an elephant-proof fence that divides the farm from the wilderness beyond. As the soaring red cedar, African olive and rosewood forest opens to a glade, we pause in the sunshine to rest our horses before continuing on, cutting through shoulder-high heathland fragrant with African sage and yellow-flowered euryops before emerging onto a protea-swathed ridgeline.

From here, we gaze out across the crater of the extinct volcano, carpeted in open moorland zig-zagged by streams and wetland, towards the north-eastern slopes of Mount Kenya, its jagged peaks shrouded behind brooding cloud. Somewhere out there, at an altitude of 3100 metres, sits Rutundu Cabins – a secluded mountain lodge overlooking a shimmering, trout-stocked glacial lake, where Riding High guests stay during a three-night riding safari.

For those who want a true wilderness experience, however, seven-day camping trips venture further beyond the treeline, through scenic valleys where waterfalls plummet into gorges, and along rocky slopes and perilous ravines towards Mount Kenya’s third highest peak, Lenana. Here, riders have the option of continuing on two feet, joining a guided hike to the summit; while experienced rock climbers can also tackle the more challenging Batian or Nelion, technical climbs that can only be attempted between December and March.

Into the elephant corridor

Tackling the terrain.

Tackling the terrain.Credit: Jack Godwin

I’m content with the four legs carrying me, however – and Spectre doesn’t waver as we begin our own skidding descent into grasslands where Maasai cattle graze alongside skittish zebras, who hide behind bushes to peek at our passing cavalcade. We are now entering the Mount Kenya Elephant Corridor, a 14-kilometre migratory pathway linking Mount Kenya and the Ngare Ndare Forest Reserve. Created in 2010 as a means of reducing human/wildlife conflict in the farmland bordering the Forest Reserve, the corridor - maintained by Mount Kenya Trust – includes a national highway underpass, last year used by more than 1000 elephants.

While we don’t see any jumbos making their way past the electrified, three-metre tall fence, we do ride past a large herd of blackbuck – a regal-looking antelope with impressive spiralled horns and a waggling white behind - grazing within the confines of the corridor. It’s encouraging to know that important conservation measures like this benefit all wildlife, and create a harmonious environment for special close encounters like this.

Julie Miller was a guest of Classic Safari Company.

THE DETAILS

FLY

Emirates flies from Sydney to Nairobi via Dubai, see emirates.com Fly from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to Nanyuki with AirKenya Express, see airkenya.com

RIDE

 Riding High Kenya offers personalised riding adventures, from one-day forest rides to bespoke 3-7- night safari adventures, with accommodation at Marania Farm included. See classicsafaricompany.com.au

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