Hotel review: Converted ship the Fingal Edinburgh is all class

CHECK-IN

There was a time not so long ago when the first thing you would do upon finding yourself aboard a vessel in Edinburgh's Leith Shore was turn around and sail out of there as quickly as possible. Leith had a reputation, and it wasn't a good one. These days, however, the waterfront area has transformed into one of Edinburgh's most desirable locales, and Fingal occupies prime position for those hoping to enjoy its thriving restaurant, bar and arts scene. The hotel is a ship, a former lighthouse tender – that is, a vessel that serviced lighthouses in the Hebrides and Northern Isles – now permanently moored in Leith, and transformed into a beautiful, luxurious property.

THE LOOK

Fingal is all class. A lot of money (£5 million, or $9 million, to be exact), a lot of talent and a lot of skill has been applied to this vessel, which was acquired by the Royal Yacht Britannia Trust in 2014, and opened as a 22-cabin luxury hotel in 2019. Though major changes had to be made to the ship during its conversion, including the removal of the funnel and the creation of two new decks to house extra suites and a restaurant and bar, the spirit of the Fingal has been beautifully retained. That's never more evident than in the ship's engine room, which has been preserved in its original state, and is viewable from a glass walkway on the lower deck. The ship's interior design includes plenty of thoughtful, tasteful maritime touches, including photography of Scotland's lighthouses by Ian Cowe.

THE ROOM

Each cabin aboard the Fingal is dedicated to one of the lighthouses the vessel once serviced. I'm staying in Lismore, named for a lighthouse on Eilean Musdile in the Inner Hebrides; a moody photo of it adorns one wall. This is a former working ship, so you don't expect a huge amount of cabin space – still, there's a king-size bed covered with a throw of tartan designed just for the hotel, a large wooden cabinet with mini bar, a desk and chair, and a large bathroom. There are views of Leith from the circular portholes, a topographical map of Eilean Musdile imprinted in leather above the bed, and lamps throwing warm light across the cabin. As something of a boat nerd, I'm drawn again and again to the brass tap fittings in the bathroom, which each look like the sort of wheels you would spin in a ship's engine room. Perfection.

FOOD + DRINK