Jamaica's national dish: Where to find the best ackee and saltfish

THE DISH

Ackee and saltfish, Jamaica

PLATE UP

If you know anything about the cuisine of Jamaica, you will probably be familiar with jerk seasoning. Jerk chicken, jerk shrimp, jerk pork – these are true gastronomic gifts to the world. But jerk is not the national dish of Jamaica. That honour goes to island soul food at its finest: ackee and saltfish. Ackee is a tropical fruit that is boiled and then sauteed with salt cod, onions, fiery Jamaican Scotch bonnet peppers, sometimes tomatoes, and extra spices. The finished dish has the consistency of scrambled eggs, is served with bread dumplings or plantains, and is a cherished breakfast staple.

FIRST SERVE

Neither of the two key, titular ingredients of ackee and saltfish is indigenous to Jamaica. Ackee is a fruit that was brought to the Caribbean from Ghana in the early 1700s, to feed Africans who had been enslaved on local sugar plantations. Around that same time, the European method of salt-curing white fish was introduced in the Caribbean. In Jamaica, the two were put together, and a legend was born.

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Though you will have no trouble tracking down good ackee and saltfish in Jamaica, one of the most popular spots for visitors to the island is Sonia's Homestyle Cooking & Natural Juices in Kingston (soniashomestyle.com).

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