Nine must-do highlights of Dingle, Ireland

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Nine must-do highlights of Dingle, Ireland

By Marian McGuinness

The mountain pass

Dunmore Head, Blasket Islands, Sea, Sunsets, Wild Atlantic Way

Dunmore Head, Blasket Islands, Sea, Sunsets, Wild Atlantic Way

The Wild Atlantic Way scribbles Ireland’s rugged west coast. With five spectacular peninsulas to explore, take time to dally in Dingle, its northernmost peninsula. Two roads lead to Dingle town, but the most graphic route weaves Conor Pass over one of Ireland’s highest mountains. Stop at the summit and be awed by the glacier-carved vista with its moraine-littered hills, sawtooth ridges and pewter-hued corrie lakes resembling prehistoric footprints stepping towards Dingle town. Twist and turn your way into the valley negotiating with lone sheep on the road that think they are Monarch of the Glen. See dingle-peninsula.ie

The loop

This scenic route hugs the ocean.

This scenic route hugs the ocean.Credit: Ireland Tourism

To get your bearings of this photogenic fragment of County Kerry, take the Slea Head Drive, a 48-kilometre loop from Dingle town. With more than 2000 archaeological sites to explore, the landscape is like an open-air ancient history museum. Drive in a clockwise direction to fully benefit the dramatic scenery as the road pull-offs are on the left side of the road. It is bilingually signposted, Irish first and English beneath. Take half-a-day to explore this jaw-dropping vista of emerald hills, quaint hamlets, ancient ruins and wild, Atlantic coastline. See irelandhighlights.com

The stone chapel

Gallarus Oratory

Gallarus OratoryCredit: Ireland Tourism

Tucked away on the northern part of the peninsula, the Gallarus Oratory appears like a portal in the landscape. One of Ireland’s iconic archaeological sites, this 7th century, dry-stone chapel resembles an upturned boat hull. Constructed in the Neolithic tradition called corbelling, stones were laid at an angle to allow rain run-off. You have to duck beneath the lintel to enter the small, dimly-lit chapel. What is astonishing is the skill of the builders, as even with the full assault of the Atlantic Ocean, this oratory is in its original condition. See curiousireland.ie

The boat tour

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Blasket Islands

Blasket IslandsCredit: Ireland Tourism

It’s spectacular driving the bounds of the wild Atlantic Ocean, but it’s exhilarating riding its rollercoaster swell. The Blasket Islands sit two kilometres off Dingle’s coast. Inhabited for nearly 2000 years, they are the last outposts of Europe. Once the bastion of famous Irish writers, they are now a Special Area of Conservation. Board a boat at Ventry Harbour for an Eco Marine Tour. Prime your sea legs and hunker down for the seesaw ride. The islands soon appear. So do the gulls, fulmars, shags and peregrines while rafts of puffins rest on the water. See marinetours.ie

The beehive hut

The Skellig Michael huts doubled as Luke Skywalker’s refuge in Star Wars: The Last Jedi.

The Skellig Michael huts doubled as Luke Skywalker’s refuge in Star Wars: The Last Jedi.Credit: Tourism Ireland

The Fahan beehive huts trace their history across Ireland to the Bronze Age. Constructed of stone and shaped like a cone, these huts were often joined by doorways and were thought to be occupied by families. Standing inside with arms outstretched, you barely touch the opposite walls. They’re cosy-warm even when the wild wind whips outside. The most well-known examples are found at the monastic settlement on Skellig Michael, an island 12 kilometres off the coast, which became the poster child for Star Wars as Luke Skywalker’s sanctuary. See beehivehuts.com

The Star Wars site

Dunmore Head, another film location favourite.

Dunmore Head, another film location favourite.Credit: Ireland Tourism

The elemental landscape of Dunmore Head, Dingle’s westernmost point, infuses the mind and body. Below is Coumeenoole Beach, where Ryan’s Daughter was filmed. Take the trail to the top of Dunmore Head to view the panoramic wild Atlantic and its ellipses of remote, jagged islands. No wonder it was chosen as a film location for Star Wars: The Last Jedi. Firstly, the scene where Luke Skywalker milks the docile space sea cow and secondly, where Rey spots Skywalker’s crashed X-Wing fighter in the waters below. Feel the Force. See letsgoireland.com/star-wars-ireland

The ice-creamery

The charming marine-blue ice cream parlour inside a historic former pub.

The charming marine-blue ice cream parlour inside a historic former pub.Credit: iStock

With Dingle’s famous waterfront to explore, head to the cobalt and white shop of Murphy’s Ice Cream for a treat. Be prepared to line up outside and once inside this delectable domain, the choices will tease you. Their ice-cream is made from the milk of Kerry cows. Murphy’s is so fussy they even distil Dingle rain to make their sorbets. Grab a cone of Chocolate and West Cork Whiskey, Dingle Gin, Caramelised Brown Bread or their best-selling, locally sourced, Atlantic Sea Salt ice-cream and go for a stroll. See murphysicecream.ie

The goldsmith

Brian de Staic’s designs take cues from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages.

Brian de Staic’s designs take cues from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages.

On the shores of Dingle Bay on the edge of town, Ireland’s leading goldsmith, Brian de Staic, has his jewellery work studio and stone, timber and glass shop. Using Irish hallmarked silver and gold, Brian handcrafts exquisite, original jewellery for the whole family. Dingle’s geological heritage as well as carvings from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages inspire his designs, including the 4th century Ogham stones found along the peninsula engraved with the linear script of the first known written language of Ireland. See briandestaic.com

The trad session

Head to Foxy John’s for all your craic and hardware needs.

Head to Foxy John’s for all your craic and hardware needs.Credit: Valerie O’Sullivan

With its musical name, Dingle is deemed the Capital of Craic. After wandering its streets of colourfully-painted shops, spend your evenings sampling the pubs and their music. The dilemma is, there are dozens. Some double up as hardware stores, another will have your shoes repaired while you sink a pint. John Benny’s pub opposite the pier, is known for its seafood as well its traditional music sessions. Music in the pubs starts around 9.30pm, so grab a stool early and settle in for the craic. You’ll be playing the boot within minutes. See johnbennyspub.com

One more thing

If you are an admirer of the Heroic Era and the derring-do of Antarctic explorers, make a pilgrimage 20 minutes from Dingle through the glacier-sculptured valley to the hamlet of Annascaul, where an iceberg-hued, blue and white pub called the South Pole Inn, overlooks the Owenscaul River. It was the former home of Antarctic explorer Tom Crean, who went on three gruelling expeditions with Scott and Shackleton. Crean’s memorabilia adorns the walls and ceiling of the pub, so grab a pint of Expedition Ale and pay homage to this Antarctic hero. See southpoleinn.com

The writer travelled at her own expense.

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