Nine must-do highlights of Mudgee, NSW

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Nine must-do highlights of Mudgee, NSW

By Sheriden Rhodes

Explore Mudgee’s burgeoning food and wine scene, meet passionate producers, see the countryside by e-bike and learn how to cook locally grown truffles in the NSW Central Tablelands town voted top tourism town two years running.

The restaurant

Dish at The Barn at Blue Wren Farm.

Dish at The Barn at Blue Wren Farm.

Former Sydneysiders Sophie and Nick Storey launched The Barn, hemmed by vines late last year on Blue Wren Farm in the heart of Mudgee’s wine region. Local produce procured via a barter-style initiative (exchanged for meals or store credits) stars on the seasonal menu served beneath the restaurant’s soaring vaulted ceilings. Friendly wait staff guide diners through a choice of small and large shared plates like house-whipped tarama, local olives and chargrilled focaccia or locally raised lamb with puy lentils and cumin yoghurt. Wines predominantly from the NSW Central West feature on the wine list. See bluewrenfarm.com

The cafe

Alby and Esthers.

Alby and Esthers.

Housed in a circa 1873 stone terrace, Alby and Esthers is found down a cobblestone alleyway in a vine-covered courtyard. The charming cafe serves coffee from Underground Coffee Roasters (arguably Mudgee’s best) and a produce-driven menu starring the cafe’s signature jaffles. Cafe-goers can also admire a rotating exhibition of local artists. See albyandesthers.com.au

The tea house

It’s well worth the drive to the one-horse town of Rylstone where delicious yum cha is unexpectedly found in a quaint tea house named 29 Nine 99 after owner Na Lan’s wedding date. The set menu offers a choice of between six or 12 dumplings handmade the night before and steamed to order, accompanied by pots of Chinese tea. Dumpling fans travel from as far as Newcastle and Sydney for Na Lan’s authentic dumplings so book ahead. See facebook.com/29nine99yumcha

The brewery

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Three Tails Brewery.

Three Tails Brewery.

Seeing a gap in Mudgee’s wine-dominated market, Mick Ash and local business partners opened Three Tails Brewery at the start of the pandemic. Patrons have flocked to the wildly popular brewery ever since for 21 craft beers on tap and authentic Texan-style barbecue cooked in Australia’s fourth largest smoker, dubbed the Governor. The sprawling brewery houses a heritage shed and beer garden, custom games room and lively front bar inspired by Ash’s favourite bar in Brooklyn New York. Smokin Bro and Co’s menu of hearty, slow-cooked Texan barbecue includes brisket, pork, corn cakes and sweet potato casserole. And it’s not just about beer. Independently produced local wines, gin and spirits are also on offer (try a tasting paddle) while the venue is child and pet friendly. See threetailsbrewery.com.au

The winery

Passionate winemaker David Lowe produces small-batch wines at Mudgee’s only organic and biodynamic vineyard. The Lowe Wines cellar door lies at the heart of the working Tinja Farm with its striking vistas across the vineyards to the Mudgee hills beyond. ​​Explore the current range with a personal wine tasting, nibble on a platter of regional produce and stroll around the farm which is home to resident emus, rescue donkeys and horses. The renowned Zin House offering a farm-to-table menu is also found onsite. See lowefamilywineco.com.au

The brunch spot

Head chef and owner Andy Crestani heads up the talented team at Mudgee newcomer Millbrie (a derivative of his children’s names). The former owner and chef of the acclaimed Pipeclay Pumphouse, Crestani’s new Market Street eatery offers a step up from the usual cafe fare. Standout dishes include Crestani’s signature bacon and egg gnocchi with truffled poached eggs and the glazed beetroot with ricotta and walnut crumble. Expect a warm welcome and good coffee (alcohol licence to come). See millbrie.com.au

The accommodation

The Sun Casa.

The Sun Casa.

The outskirts of Mudgee’s CBD is home to peaceful new retreat the Sun Casa overlooking neighbouring farmland. A contemporary farmhouse makeover has transformed the 1970s brick house which comprises three bedrooms, seriously comfy lounges, Nectre wood fireplace, two bathrooms and oversized dining table with custom seating. Owner Hannah Logan is co-owner of Logan Wines, a pretty vineyard with striking cellar door on the approach to Mudgee from Sydney. Book a wine-tasting flight (there’s a choice of four) and nab yourself a bottle of the 2022 Logan Ridge of Tears riesling recently dubbed best “dry riesling from the New World”. See thesuncasa.com; loganwines.com.au

Logan Wines.

Logan Wines.

The bike hire

Empty-nesters Brett and Karen Paterson started Ezy Ride Mudgee in 2020 with six e-bikes. The eco-friendly venture proved so popular they now hire out 35 electric bikes to visitors wanting to explore Mudgee’s countryside, vineyards and historic architecture. E-bikes are dropped off and picked up from your accommodation (complete with a rundown on how they operate, maps and helmets) while any purchases made enroute (including wine) are delivered to cyclists at the end of their ride. See ezyridemudgee.bike

The cooking school

Roll up your sleeves and learn to make gyoza, gnocchi or cannoli from scratch or cook with locally grown truffles at artisan chef Tamara Howorth’s boutique cooking school. The Little Cooking School and Commissary has recently flung open its doors to a new enlarged space in Mudgee’s CBD to cater for larger groups. The accompanying commissary (food store) meanwhile serves coffee, wine by the glass and delicious homemade meals. See littlecookingschoolmudgee.com.au

One more thing

Mudgee was named Australia’s top tourism town for the second year running in 2022. Explore the town’s burgeoning food and wine scene and hear from passionate producers at the annual Mudgee Wine and Food Month each September. See visitmudgeeregion.com.au; mudgeewinemonth.com.au

The writer was a guest of Logan Wines, Ezyride Mudgee, Millbrie, Three Tails Brewery and Blue Wren Farm.

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