Nine must-do highlights of Split, Croatia
The site
To call Diocletian’s Palace merely a “site” is to do it a grand injustice. Built in the third century as a retirement complex for Roman emperor Diocletian, it’s actually a three-hectare walled fortress with limestone and marble alleyways laced with many of Split’s top attractions, including St Domnius Cathedral, the Temple of Jupiter and the colonnaded Peristyle courtyard. Today, it’s the beating heart of the city, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed labyrinth of bars, restaurants and shops which is particularly beguiling at night when many of the buildings are lit up.
Diocletian’s Palace, the heart of Split.Credit: iStock
The view
Part of the St Domnius Cathedral complex, the 57-metre-high Gothic and Romanesque bell tower provides an unrivalled 360-degree vista over the city’s jumble of red tiled rooftops, whitewashed houses and crumbling Roman walls. Look west, and you’ll see the wooded promontory of Marjan Hill; look north, and the horizon is dominated by the dramatic Dinaric Alps. Often these sorts of views have to be earned via a dizzying climb up a claustrophobic stairwell. Not here. Instead, it’s an airy ascent up a modern, if somewhat exposed, spiral metal staircase. Tickets €7 ($11).
The stroll
Walking the waterfront – Riva Promenade.Credit: iStock
Known to everyone as Riva, rather than its tongue-troubling official moniker of Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda (Quay of the Croatian national revival), this wide seafront promenade offers a breezy respite from Old Town’s tourist-clogged passageways. Running along the south wall of Diocletian’s Palace, it’s a broad, palm tree-lined esplanade dotted with cafes and bars that offer sweeping harbour views and grade-A people-watching. Particularly popular at sunset, when there’s often live music and street entertainers, it’s the city’s preeminent spot for a pre- or post-dinner saunter.
The restaurant
Located in an alleyway just outside Diocletian’s Palace, Villa Spiza is an intimate, no-frills tavern offering a changing daily menu of regional specialities. Expect plenty of fresh seafood, such as anchovies, grilled sea bass, prawn risotto and calamari, and don’t miss the handmade desserts, particularly the tiramisu. Everything is cooked to order from an open kitchen (so it can take a while), but the friendly staff, lively retro soundtrack and excellent Dalmatian wines will keep you entertained. They don’t take bookings so arrive early and bring cash.
The hike
The path on Marjan Hill.Credit: iStock
Covering the elevated western portion of the Split peninsula, Marjan Hill is a glorious escape from the clamorous crowds. Access is via the western end of the Riva promenade or through the narrow laneways of the historic Veli Varos neighbourhood. Either way, it’s a strenuous climb to its 178-metre summit but you’ll be rewarded with glorious views over the city and the Adriatic. Hidden among the fragrant pine forest are a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, several medieval Catholic churches and even a hermitage tunnelled out of a sheer rock face.
The gallery
Overlooking the Adriatic at the base of Marjan Hill, Mestrovic Gallery is the former summer residence of Croatia’s best-known contemporary sculptor, Ivan Mestrovic. The imposing colonnaded mansion (which he also designed) holds an impressive collection of his works, including striking walnut renditions of Adam and Eve, a meditative marble figure entitled Contemplation and a dramatic bronze portrayal of an anguished Job. Be sure to explore the manicured grounds, which also contain several notable sculptures, and visit nearby Kastilac, a restored chapel lined with intricately carved wooden panels by Mestrovic. Entrance €12. See mestrovic.hr/en
The statue
By far the most famous of Mestrovic’s works is just outside the palace’s ornate Golden Gate. Considered a national hero because of his fervent defence of the Slavic languages when the Catholic Church tried to outlaw their use in religious services in the 10th century, Croatian bishop Grgur Ninski (also known as Gregory of Nin) has been immortalised by Mestrovic in a dramatic 8.5-metre bronze statue. Rubbing his left toe supposedly brings good luck, a superstition that has turned it a bright golden hue after decades of enthusiastic polishing.
The beach
Crowd-free Kasjuni Beach.Credit: iStock
Bacvice Beach might be the most convenient stretch of sand and is a 15-minute stroll of Old Town, but it’s also the most crowded. Make the effort to get to Kasjuni Beach at the base of Marjan Hill, and you’ll be rewarded with a tranquil bay bordered by dense forest and calm, sapphire blue water. There’s a fancy beach bar with cabanas and daybeds if you’re into that, otherwise throw a towel down on the finely pebbled beach and savour an island-studded horizon dotted with sailing boats and superyachts.
The bar
You’ll find no shortage of atmospheric drinking dens lining the streets of Old Town, but it’s worth hunting out the Academia Club Ghetto, a bohemian hangout with an inviting stone-walled courtyard garden. Inside you’ll find a small bar and a maze of low-beamed nooks decorated with chandeliers, modern artworks and surreal angelic sculptures sporting moustaches and sunglasses. Offering a good selection of beers, wines and cocktails (absinthe mojito anyone?), the space also hosts art exhibitions, live bands and DJs.
One more thing
Don’t be put off by the perennially long line – the ice-cream at Gelateria Emiliana really is that good. Try the fig and ricotta or the lemon and lavender and be sure to get a waffle cone – they’re handmade every day.
The writer was a guest of Intrepid Travel’s 10-day “Hiking the Balkans” trip from Split to Tirana. See intrepidtravel.com
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