Six of Southern Europe’s most charming hotels
By Tim Richards
This selection of upmarket hotels in the south of Europe guarantees luxurious comforts, good food, and easy access to popular sights.
The Lumiares, Lisbon
Situated next to an impressive scenic lookout, Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara, and a funicular railway which leads to attractions around Restauradores Square, The Lumiares is a great base for sightseeing in the famously hilly Portuguese capital. Its apartment-style rooms are elegantly decorated in a clean modern style with a dash of colour. My one-bedroom suite also has a fully-equipped kitchen, handy for self-catering. A spa offers a range of treatments, and the rooftop restaurant with its open-air terrace is a delightful space at which to dine. From €349 ($578) a night. See thelumiares.com
Claris Hotel, Barcelona
Located within a former mansion in the Eixample district near Gaudi’s famous Sagrada Familia church, this hotel has a striking appearance with a modern glass frontage rising above a neoclassical facade. My room is a comfortable space that includes decor flecked with black and gold highlights. In a glass case is a statue of the Hindu god Shiva, and this antiquarian theme continues at the first-floor exhibition of antiquities. There’s a spa available, and at rooftop level is a bar with low grey couches, potted plants, and a compact swimming pool. From €260 a night. See hotelclaris.com
Hotel Le Royal, Lyon
France’s third-largest city is a gateway to the south and the Hotel Le Royal is a historic place to stay. On the edge of the sprawling Place Bellecour, its belle epoque structure houses traditional decor enhanced by colourful modern touches, such as a lavishly red, slightly Bohemian bar. My room has a small balcony giving views of the square and the hills beyond. Scarlet and gold wallpaper and curtains above a crimson carpet add a regal touch. The breakfast room is charming, and the in-house restaurant doubles as a school for chefs. From €280 a night. See lyonhotel-leroyal.com
Heritage Hotel Fermai, Split
The Croatian coastal city of Split has a fascinating old town, inside the surviving walls of a Roman palace. Within walking distance is this hotel, a rare local example of art nouveau architecture which was transformed into accommodation in 2020. A strikingly white corridor lit by large spherical lamp shades leads to my room, which continues the elegant minimalist look with white panels, muted natural tones, and black-and-white prints. There’s just one restaurant, a breakfast room in a light-filled space. For excellent dining at other times, Makarun in the old town is a fine choice. From €130 a night. See hotelfermai.com
Hotel Excelsior, Dubrovnik
A mainstay of Croatia’s most famous seaside destination, this gorgeous hotel is perched on a hillside with views of the Adriatic Sea and of the old town which starred as King’s Landing in Game of Thrones. My room has classic lines and soft tones – light grey, pink, blue – and a compact balcony with table and chairs for taking in the scenery. This can also be enjoyed from the hotel’s restaurants and bar, and from the “beach” with its loungers, umbrellas, and steps into the Adriatic. A pool and spa are also available. From €250 a night. See adriaticluxuryhotels.com
Hotel Moskva, Belgrade
This impressive accommodation, opened in 1908, is a throwback to an era of gilded elegance. Off the grand lobby sits a long cafe of red velvet sofas and ornate chandeliers, with a pianist playing melodies as patrons order Turkish coffee and cake. My room has simple, understated class, its airy interior containing timber furniture, parquet floors, muted wallpaper and a marble-clad bathroom. This old-school delight in the heart of the Serbian capital is very affordable for its quality. From €87 a night. See hotelmoskva.rs
The writer was a guest of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and Accor.
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