Six of the best tried, true and new Hunter Region eateries
The Hunter’s burgeoning culinary scene – with its mix of newcomers and old favourites – is celebrated every April with a month-long food festival.
Bistro Molines
Bistro Molines, a Hunter Valley classic.
Hunter Valley or South of France? It’s easy to imagine yourself in Provence when dining alfresco on the Belvedere-style terrace at Bistro Molines. Offering the perfect marriage of beautiful food and warm hospitality, this iconic French bistro by legendary hospitality duo Robert and Sally Molines has been welcoming diners since 2008. Take a seat at tables draped in white tablecloths and choose from an evolving two and three course menu showcasing chef Robert’s southern French roots. Expect refined dishes with a French provincial bent like asparagus tart, house-made linguini with pippies and lemon through to charcuterie boards groaning with house-made duck rillettes, pate, terrines, chutneys and pickles. Sip on local wines and savour sweeping bucolic vistas. See bistromolines.com.au
EXP
Artful dish from EXP.
This intimate fine diner by talented local chef Frank Fawkner may be one of the smallest in the Hunter Valley with no view to speak of, yet it packs a serious culinary punch. At EXP it’s all about the experience (hence the name) with a seasonal tasting menu that celebrates the best of local produce, native ingredients and an all-Australian wine list. Opt to dine at tables scattered throughout the dimly lit space or prop yourself up at the chef’s bar to watch dishes showcasing the likes of local Binnie full-blood Wagyu, Paroo kangaroo and Redgate Farm duck plated up for appreciative diners. See exprestaurant.com.au
Humbug
Italian fare that doesn’t play by the rules at Humbug.
Allow Humbug owner-chef Michael Portley take you on a journey via his approachable yet playful take on Italian fare accompanied by sustainable vinos and new age Hunter Valley wines. Portley (ex Sydney’s Bodega and Adelaide’s Africola) and partner Stephanie Wells (front of house) opened their smart, breezy bistro in a formerly down at heel possie on Newcastle’s Hunter Street Mall in 2022 and foodies quickly took note. Long tables, banquettes and windows opening onto the street invite diners to linger over good food and one too many glasses of (mostly natural) wine. Italian classics (like house made pasta and golden focaccia) sit alongside left-of-field dishes like Danish pastry topped with a salty Spanish anchovy and parmesan custard or Koji marinated chicken with crushed cannellini and sage noisette. Tip: opt for Portley’s “Feed Me” menu – you won’t regret it. See humbugnewcastle.com.au
Flotilla
Flotilla, part of the Newcastle revolution.
The inner-city suburb of Wickham hemmed by small industry one side; harbour the other, is home to Flotilla – spearheading Newcastle’s foodie revolution with its “refined yet casual” approach to dining. Co-owned by former Silverchair bassist Chris Joannou and headed up by hatted chef Jake Deluca (ex Bistro Molines) Flotilla gives off Venice Beach meets Newcastle harbourside vibes. The ever-changing seasonal menu features dishes like blue eye cod with farfalle and citrus veloute or perhaps decadent black truffle linguine. It’s backed up by a wine list with a minimal intervention focus and seriously good cocktails. Charismatic front of house Eduardo Molina has recently taken an equal share in the business and fulfilled his dream of opening a European inspired tapas bar next door called Vecina – Spanish for neighbourhood. With Deluca’s moreish snack menu (chicken liver parfait, fish rillettes and burrata) and Newcastle’s largest by-the-glass wine list, you’ll wish this was your local. See theflotilla.com.au
Ape Yakitori Bar
Ape – from Hokkaido to the waterfront.
Japanese fusion meets Newcastle’s harbourfront at Ape Yakitori Bar (sister restaurant to enduring favourite Nagisa next door and ramen bar Susuru). The industrial chic space with raw concrete roofing, stretched canvas lights, pineapple leather banquette seating and walls insulated with mushroom fibre panelling is the backdrop for a menu showcasing the best of Hunter produce where everything (bar a few sides and sauces) is cooked over charcoal. Headed by chef Nicolas Pedemont, an open kitchen allows diners to watch yakitori skewers being tended on the grill while the bar boasts Newcastle’s biggest whisky collection, including rare whiskeys from Japan and elsewhere. Much of the ethos behind Ape (pronounced a-pay) and its name is derived from the Ainu language – the indigenous people of Hokkaido and the northern islands of Japan. “In Ainu language Ape means fire so having a fire, charcoal element in the heart of Ape celebrates that,” says part owner Taiyo Namba. Dine harbourside or take a seat at the yakitori grill. A degustation menu is also offered paired with wine, Japanese whisky or sakes selected by Namba. See apeyakitoribar.com.au
Margan Restaurant
Margan – nearly all produce comes from its kitchen garden and orchard.
One of the Hunter Valley’s early agri dining pioneers, almost 90 per cent of Margan’s produce comes from its kitchen garden and orchard. The restaurant and cellar door are constructed from energy-efficient rammed earth and local limestone gravel while everything Margan does is underpinned by an ‘estate grown, estate made’ ethos as it strives for carbon neutrality. Diners can meet the free-range chooks that supply eggs for the restaurant and wander the impressive kitchen garden brimming with asparagus, snap peas, wild garlic, zucchini and strawberries depending on the season. Take a seat on the terrace overlooking Yellow Rock and enjoy a garden to plate menu paired with both estate grown wines and small, single vineyard producers. See margan.com.au
The writer was a guest of the Hunter Culinary Association. Newcastle Food Month runs throughout April featuring signature event Le Diner en Blanc and 75 local restaurant, chef and winemaker events. See newcastlefoodmonth.com.au
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