Sunday lunch: Max's at Red Hill Estate

IT COMES as no surprise to learn that Max's at Red Hill Estate was the first winery restaurant on the Mornington Peninsula. In fact, it makes absolute sense because this 100-seater has one of the best views in the region.

We arrive early to check out the cellar door to see what wine we might choose for lunch. Owner Max Paganoni suggests a sparkling estate-grown blanc de blanc ($12 a glass, $45 a bottle) to sip while we absorb that view from the terrace - overlooking vineyards through to Western Port and Phillip Island in the distance. Lush and green, the vineyards are a picture this summer and many other diners have the same idea.

Inside, though carpeted, can be a tad noisy but it's the happy buzz of people enjoying themselves.

On Sundays, lunch is a three-course affair, fixed at $75, with at least five choices for entree, main course and dessert.

I plump for the satiny and flavoursome house-cured trout (pictured) served with a refreshing watermelon-and-mint salad drizzled with Max's own aged morello cherry balsamic vinegar to sharpen flavours.

The Red Hill Estate rose´ ($8.50 a glass, $34 a bottle) is the perfect accompaniment. My husband opts for the tart - house-made puff pastry topped with braised fennel and tangy Red Hill goat's curd with spiced local Williams pears.

He also chooses the fish of the day: crispy pan-fried red snapper on truffled pumpkin mash. I order Max's signature dish: succulent baked Tuscan pork roll with garlic and rosemary on roasted kipfler potatoes and topped with crisp prosciutto.

We finish with a mini-tasting of all desserts.

Established in 1993, the restaurant has not had a day off in 17 years, which you can understand. With views, food and service such as this, it's too good to keep just for Sundays.

Reviewed by Tricia Welsh, who was hosted by Mornington Peninsula Tourism.

Max's at Red Hill Estate, 53 Shoreham Road, Red Hill South, 5931 0177. Open daily noon-5pm, Friday and Saturday from 6pm-late, cellar door daily 11am-5pm. See maxsrestaurant.com.au. Melway 190 K12. To stay: nearby options include Max's Retreat (maxsretreat.com.au) and Dragonfly on the Hill (dragonflyonthehill.com.au).