The must-do highlights of the NSW snowfields over four days

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The must-do highlights of the NSW snowfields over four days

By Kate Allman

There’s still time to book a trip to Perisher or Thredbo, with August bringing peak snow depth and September heralding shoulder season, offering long, sunny days and cheaper prices.

So get ready to carve up the slopes of the biggest ski resort in the southern hemisphere (Perisher) or slash turns in Australia’s tallest mountain (Mt Kosciusko in Thredbo) – and do it all over a four-day weekend with this guide to the ultimate ski road trip in New South Wales.

The Man From Snowy River Hotel is a prime location for a sunny long lunch.

The Man From Snowy River Hotel is a prime location for a sunny long lunch.

Friday: Drive the Snowy Mountains Highway

The Snowy Mountains are a five-hour drive from Sydney or just a few hours from the south coast of NSW. Keen beans coming from the Narooma or Merimbula area can even surf the morning and ski in the afternoon, if that’s your thing.

If you’re like me, you prefer to stop and smell the roses – meaning, snack on the myriad foodie treats en route. First stop is Goulburn’s famous Big Merino and the real icon below it, Trapper’s Bakery. Lines move quickly and the flaky, moreish pastry is bettered by back-in-time prices ($5.95 for a chunky steak pie).

Before you reach Canberra, meander off the highway to Some Café in Collector – housed in the original general store building of 1829. This paddock-to-plate café serves fresh produce and eggs from the chooks out back from Thursday to Monday, perfect for road-trippers taking a day either side of the weekend.

In Cooma, Rhythm Snowsports has the largest collection of hire skis and snowboard equipment. They’re a lot cheaper here than acquiring on the mountains. There’s also a new doughnut van slinging hot cinnamon dough wheels that give Perisher’s famous Lil’ Orbits a run for their money. On the other side of town, The Lott Café has wholesome quiches, sandwiches, soups and great coffee.

Novotel Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa is for those who want to remain close to the slopes in a quieter locale.

Novotel Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa is for those who want to remain close to the slopes in a quieter locale.

Jindabyne is the epicentre of the NSW snowfields and offers hotels and holiday rentals, plus the most restaurants and nightlife. But if you want to stay closer to the ski slopes, in a quieter locale, Novotel Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa is just a few minutes’ drive from the Skitube to Perisher or 15 minutes’ drive from Thredbo. It has luxe apartments in a resort setting with on-site restaurant and café, sauna, gym, pool, spa, archery, and golf.

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Accommodation on the snow can be expensive but pays off in reduced hassle when simply waking up, clicking into skis and cruising down to the lifts. Ski-in, ski-out lodges like Boonoona Ski Lodge in Perisher take extra stress off by providing all meals. Thredbo Alpine Hotel is not ski-in and ski-out but has a real alpine lodge-style feel, nestled in the heart of the village.

Saturday: Explore the backcountry

Backcountry skiing involves a trudge uphill in order to ski down a mountain of untracked powder.

Backcountry skiing involves a trudge uphill in order to ski down a mountain of untracked powder.Credit: Snowy Mountains Backcountry

Rather than competing with ever-growing Saturday crowds in ski resorts, consider avoiding lift lines altogether. Backcountry skiing enables you to self-propel up mountains using skins (grips on the bottom of your skis) and special bindings, then lock your heels in and ski down in untracked powder.

Strong intermediate skiers can give it a go on a tour with Snowy Mountains Backcountry, operating out of the office at Guthega carpark in Perisher. The owner, Doug Chatten, has worked as a professional ski patroller and backcountry guide at some of the world’s biggest mountains for 33 years.

“Australia is an awesome place to learn to backcountry ski because we have a relatively stable snowpack and we’re the only unglaciated country in the world,” he says.

“People are amazed at how easy it is to do with some instruction and the right equipment. Although there is a certain level of fitness, there’s a great reward. The key is to learn it efficiently and safely. At SMBC we have a sequential learning program that builds up over about five tours.”

Avalanches, ice, unpredictable snow, navigation and changing weather conditions present serious risks, so going with a qualified guide is non-negotiable. Not a confident skier? No problem – SMBC also runs snowshoe wilderness tours and they’re a huge hit for weekenders. Routes range from summiting Mt Kosciuszko to exploring the snow gums around Perisher.

All that hiking and skinning deserves a drink. A snow trip is incomplete without sampling local schnapps while admiring the sunset Alpenglow at Wildbrumby Distillery. Later, refuel with a local brew and a pub feed at Jindabyne Brewing – which began as a backyard brewing operation by a local ski family and has become the region’s most popular pint.

Sunday: Ski or snowboard at Perisher

Arrive early in the morning for the best snow.

Arrive early in the morning for the best snow.

Australia boasts the largest ski resort in the southern hemisphere – the 1245-hectare Perisher. With 47 lifts and more than 100 trails, it’s hard to get bored in a day here. It also disperses weekend crowds better than most.

The runs on Mount Perisher and Eyre T-bar tend to have the best snow early in the morning. Guthega hides from wind and is beautiful under afternoon sun.

Stop for a famous hot chocolate at Mid Station, which builds cute marshmallow snowmen into the steaming sugar hit. High Ground has the best coffee in Front Valley, but Base Camp Café in Guthega has beans that are worth traversing for. The Man From Snowy River Hotel is a prime location for a sunny long lunch. Later, the White Spider at Eiger Chalet mixes the best cocktails in a raucous atmosphere for après drinks.

There’s no denying skiing is an expensive sport, but there are ways to save. Buying an Epic Pass (only $949 when bought the previous October) provides unlimited access to Perisher all season, plus access to resorts around the world including Vail in Colorado, Whistler in Canada, Les 3 Vallées in Europe, and Hakuba in Japan. It’s a juicy offering when you consider a single day Perisher pass is $217 when bought on the day.

You can otherwise save by purchasing online in advance and booking multiple days. Or, try skiing in shoulder season of September – the sun is out, snow is soft and playful, and a day pass comes down to $166.

Monday: Ski Thredbo

Thredbo village life: the resort excels in apres-ski activities.

Thredbo village life: the resort excels in apres-ski activities.

The great thing about skiing on a Monday is most weekend warriors leave on Sunday afternoon. That leaves you to score the longest runs and highest vertical drop of any resort in Australia at Thredbo. The resort has less overall area than Perisher but makes up for it with runs like the quad-burning, 3.7-kilometre Super Trail.

Savvy skiers at Thredbo have bought an Ikon Pass – the rival to Perisher’s Epic Pass. This offers seven days’ access to Thredbo, plus big guns around the world like Aspen Snowmass and Jackson Hole in the US, Niseko in Japan, Zermatt and Chamonix in Europe. Otherwise, the budgeters can ski Thredbo in September, when a three-day pass drops from $588 to $388.

Ring the bell at the top of Karel’s T-bar – Australia’s highest lifted point – and cruise into Eagle’s Nest for a coffee with panoramic views. Indulge in a whopper schnitzel at Kareela Hütte, and après next to the fire at Lounge Bar of Thredbo Alpine Hotel.

Thredbo’s big attraction is having plenty to do for non-skiers – with an indoor swimming pool, gym and leisure centre, charming European-style village and new premium experiences like nighttime gondola or snowcat rides up the mountain to fancy dinners under starlight. If you can afford the annual leave, take Tuesday morning off to ski a signature sunrise session with champagne breakfast, grabbing caffeine from CoffeeBeatsDrinks (CBD) in Jindabyne before heading home.

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