Tweed Valley travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights

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Tweed Valley travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights

By Caroline Gladstone
Husk Distillery.

Husk Distillery.Credit: Tweed Tourism Company

The One Distillery

Husk Distillery in tiny Tumbulgum produces libations that one might say are a bit rum - a little different. That's because Husk makes rum from cane juice, not the usual molasses. Owner Paul Messenger calls it a farm to bottle process with the growing, distilling and bottling carried out on his 60-hectare property. The Messenger family had their first harvest in 2012 but despite two floods – in 2017 and the February 2022 undulation that totally swamped the property - the business has gone from strength to strength. Distillery tours explain the makings of the four rums on offer, and Ink Gin, which is coloured with the Butterfly Pea Flower. The cellar door and restaurant are open five days a week. See huskdistillers.com/

The One Cafe

If you remember butterfly cakes and yearn for homemade pink lemonade, Flutterbies Cottage Cafe in Tyalgum is the place. The cafe and tearoom, along with boutiques including an angel store, are set in the village's former bakery, butcher shop and general store that date to 1908. Dishes on offer and the crockery they are served on are as beautiful as the surroundings, while the coffee is roasted onsite by Double or Nothing Coffee Alchymists. While Flutterbies has cornered the old-world-charm niche, the offerings such as eggs with Zaatar magic dust, lavender scones and an array of botanical gin cocktails are anything but old-fashioned. See flutterbies.com.au/

The one traditional B&B

Before the onslaught of Airbnb, there were bed-and-breakfasts where owners welcomed guests into their homes and actually provided cooked breakfasts. Sure, they've became more sophisticated over the years but the experience has always been homely – no key in the locked-box scenario. Paul Catto and Craig Holland eschewed inner-city Sydney life for the green hills of Upper Crystal Creek where there's little to do but relax and savour the views of grazing cows and the ever-present Wollumbin (Mt Warning) from every angle. Their Hillcrest Mountain View Retreat has two separate guest rooms in the house and a standalone self-catering cottage. Enjoy dinner in a gazebo with sweeping views. See hillcrestbb.com.au

The one Tweed farm staple

The fertile soils of Tweed Valley have produced milk, cream and butter for decades – former butteries turned into boutiques are a feature of the region. A relatively new industry is cheese-making with a couple of dairies producing small batches of artisan styles including mozzarella, haloumi, whey ricotta, brie and kefir. Cheeses Loves You uses Jersey cow milk which owner Deb Allard claims is the best; she sells her products only at local farmers' markets including Mullumbimby. Tweed Valley Whey has a cafe and farm store where their cheeses and home-made gelato are sold along with an array of jams and smallgoods. Both cheeseries are based in the hamlet of Burringbar, south of Murwillumbah. See tweedvalleycheeses.com.au facebook.com/dairyandcheese/

The one romantic retreat

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La Rocher Eco Retreat is that place you never want to leave and fortunately you don't need to as the four villas on a ridgeline in the hamlet of Smith's Creek - not far from Uki - have got it all. Owner Graham Rocher designed the cabins which include gourmet kitchens, plush bedrooms and alluring free-standing baths positioned to take in the view of Wollumbin through floor-to-ceiling windows. The fridge is stocked with breakfast foods and snacks and guests can also rustle up a barbecue on the commodious balcony which comes with that view and a day-bed to boot. A pool completes the perfect picture. See larocher.com

The one Post Office coffee roaster

When the heritage-listed post office was up for sale in Uki, a town in the shadow of Wollumbin, Gary Wall took the opportunity. He thought 'Why not keep the postal business, install a top-end coffee roaster, make great blends and serve a decent cuppa?' Gary uses ethically-grown green Arabica beans from Ethiopia and Central and South America to produce roasts including Postmasters and Popayan Filter, the latter a single-origin Columbia roast perfect for plunger coffee. Locals collect their mail and settle in for coffee and a cake, and peruse art during his regular exhibitions. Like many Tweed towns, Uki was inundated last February but businesses including the second-hand treasure trove, The Vault, have all bounced back. bastionlane.com/ thevaultuki.com

The one condiment creator

When floods, drought and hailstorms wreaked havoc on her family's avocado and macadamia farm at Mooball, Julia Foyster decided to start a business that would bring in a steady income. Originally from Germany, Julia married into a fifth-generation farming family 12 years ago and settled in the Tweed. She watched on as floods swept away watermelons and hailstorms shredded the fruit from thousands of avocado trees. Tweed Real Food was created and today produces seasonings, gourmet salts, balsamic vinegars and barbecue rubs. While COVID-19 put a lot of folks out of business, Julia's was saved by her hundreds of mail-order clients. The company's famous dukkha – Avo Smash – is a must while Bourbon Maple Splash is a huge seller. See tweedrealfood.com

The one farmers' market

The Tweed Valley and Northern Rivers region is paradise for small producers aided by rich volcanic soil and rainfall. It's hailed by many as Australia's next gourmet destination. To taste a wide variety of produce – mostly grown or crafted within a 30-kilometre radius - head to the Murwillumbah Farmers' market. Located in the showgrounds, it's the region's longest running market, held every Wednesday regardless of the weather. There are artisan breads, dairy, eggs, honey, salad greens, condiments, fruits, cooked meals, nuts – the lot – and local musicians entertain on most days. See murwillumbahfarmersmarket.com.au/

The one art gallery

A cultural oasis built on a hill and surrounded by green pastureland dotted with grazing cattle – that's the Tweed Regional Gallery and Margaret Olley Art Centre. The slick building built in 2004, and situated a few kilometres south of Murwillumbah, replaced the former gallery in a Federation house in town. Today it focuses on four collection themes - Works of Regional Relevance, Australian Portraits, Australian Artists' Prints and the works of Margaret Olley. Following the death of the acclaimed still-life artist, some 76,000 objects from her Paddington home studio were bequeathed to the gallery. To mark Olley's 100th birthday year, a new exhibition titled Margaret Olley: Far from a Still Life will run from March 22 to October 8. See gallery.tweed.nsw.gov.au/Home

One more thing ...

Credit: Tweed Tourism Company

The Tweed River, responsible for creating the lush valley, meanders from the Great Diving Range on a 78-kilometre course to the coast. It's watershed, however, covers 1055 square kilometres. While it's peaceful and lazy most of the time, the river peaked at 6.5 metres in Murwillumbah during the February, 2022, floods, and swamped hinterland and some coastal towns. The best way to view its wildlife and rainforested banks is on a 2.5-hour cruise with Tweed Escapes. The Huon Pine-crafted ferry, Spirit of Wollumbin, pushes off from Tweed Heads South three times a week; other trips on offer are sunset cruises and an Indigenous lunch cruise. tweedescapes.com.au/

Caroline Gladstone travelled courtesy of Tweed Tourism Company. visitthetweed.com.au/

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