Two things you must do to guarantee you’ll see Japan’s cherry blossoms

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Two things you must do to guarantee you’ll see Japan’s cherry blossoms

By Kristie Kellahan

I’m captivated by cherry blossoms, their exuberant beauty and fragile transience. In springtime, when the brilliant pink and white blooms burst forth from branches in Paris, New York and beyond, it’s a joyful herald that warmer weather has finally arrived. I can think of nothing better than sitting quietly under an abundant pink canopy on a sunny, blue-sky day.

Osaka blooms: sakura are a national obsession.

Osaka blooms: sakura are a national obsession.Credit: iStock

This year, I have my sights firmly set on the Land of the Rising Sun. Any flower tragic will tell you Japan is cherry blossom central, the prime destination for petal pilgrimages. The word ‘hanami’ was invented to describe the act of flower viewing, specifically during cherry blossom season. Sakura, as the trees are known in Japan, are a national obsession, flowering from the southernmost tip of the country to the northern reaches of Hokkaido from March to May.

To celebrate the occasion, there’s Asahi beer in pink cans, sweet treats made with shredded flowers, food festivals, blossom-inspired nail art, a limited-edition Diptyque candle that smells like ‘a spring night in Japan’. Count me in, petal.

Tokyo lights: Japan celebrates the season with pop-up events and one-off products.

Tokyo lights: Japan celebrates the season with pop-up events and one-off products.Credit: iStock

But how to time a visit, months or even years in advance, when nobody knows exactly when peak bloom will occur? Bringing to life the perfect travel pictures we have in our minds takes planning, intel, ingenuity and a great amount of luck.

Heavily dependent on the weather, organising a trip to coincide with Mother Nature’s whims can feel like trying to catch lightning in a bottle. Timing is everything when it comes to northern lights, Africa’s Great Migration and the fleeting-but-fabulous sakura.

I touch down with fingers and toes crossed at Kansai International Airport, gateway to Osaka and Kyoto. Official peak bloom forecasts, issued by Japan Meteorological Agency, have changed seven times since I booked my flights. I check the weather app so many times, I could be accused of stalking.

Ueno Park, Tokyo: a rail pass lets you detour and go where the weather or blooms are.

Ueno Park, Tokyo: a rail pass lets you detour and go where the weather or blooms are.Credit: iStock

In Osaka, I meet up with Rob Kodama of tour company InsideJapan to get the local lowdown.

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“The most important thing is to be flexible,” Kodama says. “Japan is a big country and there are blooms from south to north. With a rail pass, you can detour and go where the weather or blooms are better. If it’s raining in Kyoto, you might have more luck in Nara or Yoshino.”

His next recommendation is appealing: stay longer. “Japan is not as expensive as some would have you believe,” he says. “The longer you stay, the more chance you’ll see plenty of blooms.”

The next morning, I hop on the Shinkansen train for the 15-minute high-speed journey to Kyoto. It’s an auspicious day, so a pop-up festival is on at Kitano-Tenmangu Shrine. Munching on delicious takoyaki, chicken karaage and squid skewers from the vendors, I forget about the overcast weather.

Vendors prepare takoyaki octopus balls stall at Kitano-Tenmangu Shrine.

Vendors prepare takoyaki octopus balls stall at Kitano-Tenmangu Shrine. Credit: iStock

Mother Nature is more obliging in Tokyo, 48 hours later. On a long walk with InsideJapan guide Kazuko Ogawawa, I end up in Ueno Park at sunset. White blossoms cascade from Yoshino trees, as people of all ages take to the lotus-filled pond in paddle boats. There’s a carnival atmosphere and huge crowds, everyone vying for the perfect Instagram selfie with the blooms. It’s fun, but not my dream come true.

The best has been saved for last. The final day of my trip is a spring stunner in Osaka. Under a cornflower-blue cloudless sky, I head to the grounds of Osaka Castle, where hundreds of cherry trees are in dazzling peak bloom. I’m torn between taking photos with my smartphone or just soaking it all in with my eyes. I don’t want to miss a thing.

Office workers are gathered on picnic blankets, drinking beer, kids laugh as they play under the gently falling petals, lovers canoodle. It’s as pretty as a picture. The picture I had in my mind.

Osaka Castle: we arrive to hundreds of cherry trees in dazzling peak bloom.

Osaka Castle: we arrive to hundreds of cherry trees in dazzling peak bloom.Credit: Getty

THE DETAILS

Tour

InsideJapan can tailor self-guided cultural adventures across Japan to suit interests, timeframes and budgets. Their 14-night Best of Japan self-guided trip costs from $3510 a person (excluding international flights), including all accommodation, breakfast, transport, some private guiding and cultural experiences. See insidejapantours.com

Stay

Holiday Inn Express Osaka City Centre Midosuji is close to shops, restaurants and public transport. Grab & Go breakfast is a popular amenity. See ihg.com

Fly

Jetstar flies direct to Kansai International Airport (KIX), the gateway to Osaka and Kyoto. See jetstar.com

The writer travelled in Japan with support from InsideJapan and IHG Hotels & Resorts.

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