How the Swedes invented buffet dining

PLATE UP

For a country of only 10 million people, Sweden really has left a colossal cultural mark on the world. You've heard of ABBA, yes? You're aware of Greta Thunberg? You've seen a movie with a Skarsgard in it? You've read about dragon tattoos? And your house features furniture that came home in a flatpack? You've also, almost certainly, taken an empty plate up to a large bench filled with every food imaginable, and piled it high. And then piled it high again. And again. You've been to a smorgasbord. The favoured dining style of many a cruise passenger, a smorgasbord is traditionally a help-yourself spread of sandwiches and cold cuts, though it has been transformed at sea (and elsewhere) into an infinite feast of gastronomic wonder. In the style of ABBA, we say to Sweden: thank you for the buffet.

FIRST SERVE

There are a couple of different origin stories for the smorgasbord. One – according to the Encyclopedia Britannica – is that, centuries ago, house guests in rural areas of Sweden were expected to contribute food to large gatherings (like Australia's "bring a plate" tradition), and these dishes were set out on tables for guests to pick at. Another is that, in the 16th century, the Swedish upper class began providing guests with a small table of snacks to go along with their alcoholic beverages. Perhaps both are true. Regardless, this table of food morphed from being the side dish to the main meal in the early 20th century, and the variety of foods increased to take in this new status.

ORDER THERE

In Stockholm, enjoy a feast at the Grand Hotel's historic Veranda restaurant (grandhotel.se), where the smorgasbord is still served with local schnapps.

ORDER HERE

For one of the best smorgasbords at sea, and one with a distinct Swedish influence, try Viking Cruises (vikingcruises.com).

ONE MORE THING

There's a particular style of smorgasbord in Sweden that you might want to look out for at the right time of year: the "julbord", or Christmas table, a seven-course Yuletide feast that's all eaten buffet-style. Arrive hungry.