What is moules frites? Belgium's national dish of mussels and chips shouldn't work, but it does

PLATE UP There's no good reason why mussels and chips should go so well together. Crusty bread would make more sense as a match for the molluscs, something to sop up all that liquid at the end. However, no one ever made anything worse by adding chips to it, and Belgian frites are particularly good, so here we find ourselves with a European classic. Moules-frites is Belgium's national obsession, and one with myriad gustatory possibilities. The most common preparation for the mussels is "mariniere" – cooked with white wine, shallots, parsley and butter – though they can also be done with flour and cream ("a la creme"), with celery, leeks and butter ("nature"), and with beer ("a la bier"). The frites are double-fried to ensure a fluffy interior and a crackle-crisp shell. Place a good Belgian beer on the side and life is unquestionably good.

FIRST SERVE Moules-frites might seem a bit fancy these days, but the dish's origins are humble. Mussels gained popularity in Belgium around the 16th century as a more affordable and readily available alternative to fish. By the 18th century, potatoes had been introduced to Belgium from the New World, cultivated, and according to a Flemish manuscript from 1781, eventually fried and paired with mussels.

ORDER THERE Though looking for the best moules-frites in Brussels is like attempting to discover the best pizza in Naples – objectively impossible – you could do far worse than visit the ever-popular bistro Le Chou de Bruxelles (lechoudebruxelles.be).

ORDER HERE Sydneysiders, grab a large portion of moules mariniere and frites at Bistro Papillon in the CBD (bistropapillon.com.au). In Melbourne, Bon Ap Petit Bistro in Fitzroy (bonap.com.au) does a great "moules normande".

ONE MORE THING Though this is undoubtedly Belgium's national dish, most of the mussels consumed here come from the Netherlands. The best mussels are cultivated in the mouth of the Scheldt river, in the Dutch region of Zeeland.