Yes, you can do the Amalfi Coast on a budget
By Caterina Hrysomallis
Instagram scenes of fairy tale cliffside restaurants, monster-sized yachts and celebrity-frequented resorts are enough to scare someone’s wallet out of a visit to the Amalfi Coast. Almost everything we see on social media screams “rich”. But before putting this region and its charming multi-colour hillside towns in the “too expensive” basket, know there are absolutely ways to enjoy this slice of southern Italian coast without pushing the boat out. Here’s how.
Stay in a less famed town
Positano, Amalfi and Ravello are among the coast’s most visited towns, making accommodation expensive. Travellers can enjoy a similar (though smaller scale) seaside experience in more petite, underrated towns such as Conca dei Marini or Praiano.
Praiano’s beaches are as picturesque as any you’ll see on Instagram.Credit: iStock
Otherwise, stay on the Sorrentine coast, on the opposite side of the peninsula. There’s plenty of accommodation in Sorrento, known as a gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Given how well-connected it is by public transport, it’s a great base for day trips. If sustainable travel is a priority, towns a little further away from the action, such as Vico Equense, still deliver on seaside bliss and la dolce vita, while being comparatively peaceful in high season.
Jennifer Coolidge’s wealthy Tanya goes full Monica Vitti.Credit: HBO
Take advantage of public transport
If you’re flying into Naples Airport, regional train line Circumvesuviana connects Naples with Sorrento (the closest train stop to the Amalfi Coast). The alternative – taking a taxi the entire way to the Amalfi Coast – is pricey, and during peak tourism windows there’s a good chance you’ll get swallowed in traffic. A €100 ($167) taxi ride or a €4.90 ($8) train? It’s a no-brainer.
You’ll be tempted to channel your best Monica Vitti by hiring a Vespa or a vintage car in the warmer months, a la Jennifer Coolidge’s Tanya McQuoid in The White Lotus – but don’t give into the ’gram. In summer, costs soar above €300 ($500) a week for basic car hire on the Amalfi Coast (excluding fuel). That, combined with the fact it’s not a particularly easy or safe place to drive due to the narrow roads, congestion and limited parking in some towns, means it’s not the wisest transport choice.
The beauty of getting around this patch of coastline is you can take advantage of the ferries. The Amalfi Coast is impressively well-connected via sea. To keep spending down, book ferry tickets on the websites locals use – a go-to is Traghettilines. Avoid leaving bookings to the last minute, particularly in the busy season. Popular ferry routes, such as those bound for Capri or Positano, sell out faster than you can say “presto”. You might be left hanging somewhere for days – even a week (yes, really).
Do as the Amalfitani do – it’s often free
Secluded gem, Bagni Regina Giovanna.Credit: Alamy
You won’t catch an Amalfitano paying a premium for beach real estate. Do your research and ask the locals where they swim. Visiting upmarket beach clubs comes at a hefty cost and they’re often overrun with tourists. Positano’s Fornillo Beach, Amalfi’s Duglio Beach and Capri’s Marina Grande are all free options, as is Sorrento’s Bagni Regina Giovanna, a secluded swimming hole that opens out to the ocean. It was named in honour of Queen Giovanna II of Naples, who used to swim there in the 1300s, supposedly with her lovers.
Also free? Marvelling at the architecture of the many churches, known for their Italo-Byzantine design features, flush with incredible mosaic detailing.
The region is also spoiled for memorable walks and hikes. Tackling uphill towns is enough to raise the heart rate, but for something more challenging, the four-hour Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods) hike takes you from Bomerano to Positano, with elevated views of Amalfi’s kaleidoscopic towns and the Mediterranean.
Marvelling at the Piazza del Duomo won’t cost you a thing.Credit: iStock
Travel in September
Even if you can handle the peak-season summer heat, surging accommodation rates will quickly blow out the budget. On the flip side, travelling during the off-season is significantly cheaper but many hotels and restaurants close in the colder months. There is a sweet spot in September, when the weather is still pleasant enough for a swim and accommodation prices relax – as do the crowds.
Avoid public holidays, such as Italy’s Republic Day on June 2, at all costs. This is when many Italians flock from the cities to the coasts. You’re better off visiting places such as Rome or Florence during this time, which are quieter than they’d usually be in June.
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