$27 billion upgrade makes airport enormous, modern and mostly empty

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$27 billion upgrade makes airport enormous, modern and mostly empty

By Kristie Kellahan

The Airport

Hong Kong International Airport (HKG), built on reclaimed land on the island of Chek Lap Kok.

The Flight

Cathay Pacific CX101 from Hong Kong to Sydney.

The Arrival

It’s about a 30-minute drive from Tsim Sha Tsui, on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong, to the airport. I have a pre-arranged car transfer from my hotel. Other transport options include the Airport Express train ($HK110/$20) or taxi ($HK255/$50, give or take, depending on traffic). I’m heading to Terminal 1, where most major airlines depart from.

Hong Kong International – gradually getting back to full speed with passenger numbers.

Hong Kong International – gradually getting back to full speed with passenger numbers.Credit: iStock

The Look

Hong Kong International Airport, also referred to as Chek Lap Kok International Airport, is the successor of Kai Tak Airport, which many travellers will remember for its dramatic approach path in the built-up city area. For an adrenaline rush, check out online footage of jumbo jets almost brushing skyscrapers on the descent to Kai Tak, said to be one of the world’s most difficult airport landings.

HKG opened in 1998, soon becoming one of the world’s busiest airports. That all changed during the pandemic and almost two years of isolation. Just a small fraction of the number of passengers has passed through the airport in the past 12 months, compared to the same period in 2019.

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An ambitious expansion plan had been put in motion before the shutdowns and in July 2022, a third runway opened, part of a $HK141 billion ($27 billion) project to increase the airport footprint by 50 per cent. Result? It’s enormous, modern, clean and mostly empty. When I see a sign pointing to gates 5-530, I’m glad I’m wearing comfortable sneakers.

Check-in

With at least half a dozen Business Class check-in counters open, I wait no more than five minutes to drop off my suitcase and pick up a boarding pass. Worth noting that some airlines, including Cathay Pacific, offer in-town check-in at several MTR train stations for passengers travelling to the terminal via Airport Express.

Security

The line for bag-screening moves quickly. I’m not happy when my expensive tweezers are confiscated from my makeup bag, deemed too sharp for carry-on. At the boarding gate, a face scan plus ticket scan is required to board the plane.

Food + Drink

As a Business Class passenger, I make use of Cathay Pacific’s terrific lounge, The Deck, near Gate 6. There’s a supper spread of butter chicken, rice and pasta, plus a made-to-order noodle and dim sum service counter.

Dozens of choices of food for purchase in the terminal, from dumplings to ramen to Gordon Ramsay burgers. The major takeaway chains – McDonald’s, Starbucks and Burger King – are all there too. Duddell’s serves Cantonese comfort food in a casual outpost of the Michelin-starred restaurant in Central Hong Kong.

Inside the vast Hong Kong International Airport.

Inside the vast Hong Kong International Airport.Credit: iStock

Retail Therapy

No surprise to see an abundance of shopping temptations in this retail-strong destination. Duty-free stores offer the usual alcohol, cosmetics, confectionery and electronics. Specialty stores sell many high-end luxury brands (Chanel, Cartier, Breitling, Gucci) and gourmet products, including Tea WG. There’s a TripAdvisor store, the first I’ve seen anywhere in the world, offering travel accessories, snacks and drinks. Spend over $HK2500 (around $500) in a single transaction in the airport and the goods will be delivered to Australia, free of charge.

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Passing Time

Eat, shop or browse the Internet with free Wi-Fi. In addition to airline lounges for guests flying First or Business Class, there are several for-fee lounges available. Eligible American Express cardholders can access the Centurion Lounge. If you have more than a few hours to kill, consider booking a room at Regal Airport Hotel, directly connected to Terminal 1.

The Verdict

Vast and sprawling, it has everything a traveller might need. Just remember to wear comfy shoes.

Our Rating Out of Five

★★★★

Kristie Kellahan was a guest of Cathay Pacific (cathaypacific.com) and Hong Kong Tourism Board (discoverhongkong.com).

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