Evening skating at the Wollman Rink in Central Park.Credit: NYC & Company
You'll feel as if you've stepped into the landscape of a Bing Crosby carol if you visit New York in December. The weather is frigid but the tourist crowds are thinner, decorations glitter and seasonal music from street corners and theatres makes you smile. Though your dreams of a white Christmas might be disappointed – snow isn't guaranteed – you'll encounter most of the other cliches of Christmas cards, from roasting chestnuts to warbling Santas and yuletide carols being sung just about everywhere.
The lighting of the giant Christmas tree at the Rockefeller Centre on the first Wednesday after Thanksgiving (December 4 this year) marks the start of the festival season in New York. The tree's 30,000 lights are supplemented by illuminated angels blowing trumpets above the Rockefeller Centre's famous sunken ice rink, which has featured in many movie scenes.
Saks Fifth Avenue Christmas windows and light show display. Credit: Shutterstock
These days you'll have to join a long queue for your spin on the ice, so you may want to skate at Wollman Rink in Central Park instead. It's a magical winter experience, with the rink overlooked by the lights of skyscrapers and the frozen fingers of trees glittering with ice.
Radio City Music Hall at the Rockefeller Centre – America's largest indoor theatre – is home to the most spectacular Christmas show in the city. It runs throughout November and December and features the famous Rockettes chorus girls dressed in skimpy Santa costumes, as well as marching "wooden" soldiers, dancing dolls and Rudolf the red-nosed reindeer – a must-see for kids and the young at heart. Even if you don't see the show, it's worth visiting the Music Hall for its art deco architecture.
Among other classic December shows in New York is Tchaikovsky's The Nutcracker Suite ballet at the Lincoln Centre and a musical retelling of Dickens' morality tale A Christmas Carol at Paramount Theatre, Madison Square Garden. Famous concert venue Carnegie Hall features a whole calendar of seasonal concerts.
Madison Avenue, Manhattan.
Messiah singalongs abound, the best of which might be at Trinity Church to the accompaniment of a baroque orchestra. At weekends at South Street Seaport you can join in the carol singing with the St Cecilia Chorus.
Music apart, it's the decorative lights which brighten up the long winter evenings. Days are short, so get your New York sightseeing done early and then set out to enjoy the show. Park Avenue and Fifth Avenue are strung with splendid illuminations, while Bronx Zoo is loaded with fairy lights and more than 100 illuminated animal sculptures.
Cherubs and angels adorn the lovely Christmas tree at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which overlooks a baroque nativity scene. Even train stations aren't immune to the festival spirit, with Grand Central lighting up with a laser show choreographed to Christmas music.
Equally enticing are the windows of upmarket department stores from Bergdorf Goodman to Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale's. On Herald Square, Macy's is covered in fairy lights and has assistants dressed as elves, plus a fantastic Santaland that's sure to make your children's eyes pop.
New York is, needless to say, one of the world's great shopping cities. For an alternative to mainstream shopping, though, hit the holiday markets on Union Square, Columbus Circle or in Grand Central Terminal, where stalls deliver handmade gifts, jewellery and chocolate.
Linger long enough and you can enjoy New Year's Eve too. Half a million revellers cram into Times Square for the traditional countdown accompanied by live music and fireworks, but Prospect Park in Brooklyn hosts a more low-key, family-friendly alternative accompanied by live music and free mugs of hot chocolate.
Fireworks are set off at Long Meadow, though the best views are from Prospect Park West. Lights explode in green and red against a background of skyscrapers, faces turn to the sky in admiration, and the festival season ends in New York style.
TRIP NOTES
MORE
FLY
American Airlines flies to New York City from Sydney and Melbourne via Los Angeles. See americanairlines.com.au
STAY
AKA Times Square has apartment-style accommodation of studios and suites, many with kitchens, in midtown Manhattan. See stayaka.com/aka-times-square
Brian Johnston travelled at his own expense.
Sign up for the Traveller newsletter
The latest travel news, tips and inspiration delivered to your inbox. Sign up now.